Yamaha Neck Relief

[paulin]

I bought a Yamaha AC3M a couple of months ago and found it had somewhat of a high action near the 12th. fret and some fret buzz and rattle.

So, I took it to my local music store for a setup including slightly sanding the saddle and a string change to 11-52s. No nut work. Well, it now rattles/buzzes worse than before. The neck came back virtually flat so I loosened the truss rod to create some relief. After loosening the rod in steps (until it eventually stopped turning) the rattle/buzz issue is mostly gone but still not much neck relief.

Will more relief develop in time or do I need to go back to heavier strings? BTW, relative humidity here inside the music room is 39 to 42%.

Thanks in advance,
Paul

[ChalkLitIScream]

Where along the fretboard is the buzzing? Location may help narrow down the issue. How much relief do you have on the neck? You mentioned high action at the 12th fret, but no nut work was done and the buzzing persisted. You've got some nice instruments. Compare the nut action with them. I think the nut slots may be too low for your playing style-surprising as most yammies have had high action near the nut.

I use 11-52s on my AC3R with no problem.

[YamahaGuy]

What do you mean you released the truss rod "until it stopped turning?" If it seemed like the threads ran out, it is probably at the point where going further gets to the relief stage of a dual action truss rod. Just as there is felt resistance in tightening a truss rod to straighten a bowed neck, there will be tension in loosening the truss rod to add bow to a neck in its natural position.

With my first gen AC3R, early on I was getting buzz on the g string. It turned out to be the radius of the saddle wasn't small enough (too gradual of a curved shape). When I set the intonation, I didn't maintain the original dome of the top of the saddle. I ended up have to put a new saddle in it.