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  #1  
Old 06-26-2022, 11:43 AM
RJVB RJVB is offline
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Default other kind of fret buzz?

I'm very allergic to unwanted buzzes, so one of my gripes with heavier steel strings is that the lower ones require an assertive fingering to hold them down if a note has to continue sounding when changing chords or else a nasty buzz can result. Idem if you're releasing pressure to stop the note.

My archtop has a buzz when playing the lower 3 strings a bit more loudly. Not a normal buzz on a higher (or lower) fret, more like the buzz you get from a badly cut nut or saddle slot. Evidently it sounds like it's coming from around the fingerrest, where I did indeed fixed buzzes due to the PU wiring.

Then I realised the buzz didn't occur on the open strings, had the idea to look at the frets and saw that the worst offenders had a rough looking surface. Hmmm, could it be the strings are buzzing between my finger and the fret? Stopping the string with the fingertip square on top of the fret solved the buzz, but would probably also have solved sympathetic buzzes because of the muted sound. Pressing down *hard* at the normal fretting location also seems to remove the buzz, though.

So... is this a known form of fret buzz in steel string guitars? Does it indicate that my frets are bad (in that case I'm in for an expensive surprise as almost all frets below the 12th are concerned...)? Or do I just have to stop unlearning to press too hard in cases where this buzz becomes audible?
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Pickle: Gretsch G9240 "Alligator" wood-body resonator wearing nylguts (China, 2018?)
Toon: Eastman Cabaret JB (China, 2022)
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  #2  
Old 06-26-2022, 01:39 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Archtops usually have an adjustable bridge?

Raising your action may eliminate/reduce your buzzes or buy you some time until a fret job.
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  #3  
Old 06-26-2022, 03:32 PM
RJVB RJVB is offline
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That's the thing, it's not *that* kind of fret buzz. Sounds different too, more "electric" like, or the kind you'd get from string winding gone bad or if a cover place screw isn't tightened properly on a resonator.

I'll be going to my luthier this week anyway - to get a ZeroGlide nut installed so after that I can exclude the nut.

Next up after that mod is the installation of a new bridge (with wood and wood+bone insert adjustable saddles). It is not entirely impossible that this will fix my issue. The posts of the stock lean backwards and are quite thin; unlikely as it seems I'm not excluding the possibility that the saddle "rattles" against the posts if I dig in enough.
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I'm always not thinking many more things than I'm thinking. I therefore ain't more than I am.

Pickle: Gretsch G9240 "Alligator" wood-body resonator wearing nylguts (China, 2018?)
Toon: Eastman Cabaret JB (China, 2022)
Stanley: The Loar LH-650 (China, 2017)
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  #4  
Old 06-26-2022, 03:57 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJVB View Post

I'll be going to my luthier this week anyway - to get a ZeroGlide nut installed so after that I can exclude the nut.
A capo will quickly exclude the nut and turn you first fret into a zero fret.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2022, 04:28 PM
RJVB RJVB is offline
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Of course. I suppose I meant to write "exclude the nut for good".
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I'm always not thinking many more things than I'm thinking. I therefore ain't more than I am.

Pickle: Gretsch G9240 "Alligator" wood-body resonator wearing nylguts (China, 2018?)
Toon: Eastman Cabaret JB (China, 2022)
Stanley: The Loar LH-650 (China, 2017)
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