anyone who has changed their bridge pins?

[musicwu]

Hi folks,

I'm looking for some good bridge pins to replace the plastic ones on my guitar.I understand the new pins need to have the right size to 'fit' the guitar.

For those who have done this before, could you shed some light on this, do new pins have to be exactly the same size as the originals or does 'fit' means roughly fit is fine?

I tried some TUSQ pins that were roughly the same size (only 0.001'' shorter in diameter below the collar) as those original ones but when I restrung the guitar the pin that held the low E string kept popping out (for 5 or so times) while the rest of the pins where fine.

BTW, just some extra info. I also notice that when I use the original pins, they don't uniformly sit on the bridge but rather some sit higher than others and usually the one for the low E string is among the higher ones. Most of my other guitars don't have the same problem(if this is a problem...). I know i'm a bit fussy on this. Just trying to know more about how this beautiful instrument works...

Did i miss something?

Any input is appreciated.

[HodgdonExtreme]

If you measured the diameter as only .001" smaller than original - I doubt the bridge pins are causing the string to pop out upon restringing.

Not to insult your intelligence, but are you familiar with how the ball end of the string it's supposed to bear against the bottom surface of the bridge plate inside the guitar?

This was a huge revelation to me not long ago, and understanding it has made my string changes way easier and better.

A lot of folks like to bend the ball end of the strings a little bit to make it a no brainer when getting the strings to catch on the bridge plate...

[ChalkLitIScream]

^^
I took a look at a friends guitar. He doesn't play, but wanted to get into it and he kept complaining about a bridge pin not sitting. It turns out the ball end wore another whole making sort of a figure 8 shape.

Here's what I suggest: slip your smartphone and take a short recording with the flash on of the bridge plate. Can even do it livetime if your phone has a front facing flash.
Bend the ball end of the low E, shove it down there so there's more than enough slack. Insert the pin to the proper orientation. Hold the pin in place and pull the string from above the guitar and watch if the ball end locks to the bridge plate.

Oh and a potentially even simpler solution. Switch your low E pin for another-preferably the widest of the 5. See if that extra thickness is enough.

Also regarding the original pins not sitting uniform, do you press them down semi-gently after tension is put on the strings? This does happen at times, and all I need to do is push the pins down.
Don't go too hard because if the ball end is sitting inside the bridge plate instead of on it, the extra force may chip or break your bridge plate

[musicwu]

Originally Posted by HodgdonExtreme

If you measured the diameter as only .001" smaller than original - I doubt the bridge pins are causing the string to pop out upon restringing.

Not to insult your intelligence, but are you familiar with how the ball end of the string it's supposed to bear against the bottom surface of the bridge plate inside the guitar?

This was a huge revelation to me not long ago, and understanding it has made my string changes way easier and better.

A lot of folks like to bend the ball end of the strings a little bit to make it a no brainer when getting the strings to catch on the bridge plate...

Thank you for your reply.
I should've made it clear that I understand how the ball ends are supposed to be placed underneath the bridge plate instead of the bottom of the pins. In fact I always bend the strings when I restring my guitars.
I also noticed that if the ball ends run parallel to the grooves on the pins , they are more likely to stay there stably.
Sorry for the grammar errors as English is not my first language.

[musicwu]

Originally Posted by ChalkLitIScream

^^
I took a look at a friends guitar. He doesn't play, but wanted to get into it and he kept complaining about a bridge pin not sitting. It turns out the ball end wore another whole making sort of a figure 8 shape.

Here's what I suggest: slip your smartphone and take a short recording with the flash on of the bridge plate. Can even do it livetime if your phone has a front facing flash.
Bend the ball end of the low E, shove it down there so there's more than enough slack. Insert the pin to the proper orientation. Hold the pin in place and pull the string from above the guitar and watch if the ball end locks to the bridge plate.

Oh and a potentially even simpler solution. Switch your low E pin for another-preferably the widest of the 5. See if that extra thickness is enough.

Also regarding the original pins not sitting uniform, do you press them down semi-gently after tension is put on the strings? This does happen at times, and all I need to do is push the pins down.
Don't go too hard because if the ball end is sitting inside the bridge plate instead of on it, the extra force may chip or break your bridge plate

I appreciate your advice. But I believe worn bridge plate shouldn't be the issue as the guitar is pretty new. Actually most photos of the same model on the internet show the same problem (again ,it might not be a problem at all..), the pins simply don't sit uniformly. I guess I'll just live with that.

I'll certainly take your advice about not pushing too hard.

[JayBee1404]

A few questions...

1) What make and model is your guitar?
2) Do the slots in the original pins end below the collar, or do they go through the collar?
3) Are the slots in the replacement pins exactly the same as those in the original pins?
4) Are you using the same gauge of strings that the guitar had fitted when it left the factory?

[NotALuth]

Originally Posted by JayBee1404

A few questions...

1) What make and model is your guitar?
2) Do the slots in the original pins end below the collar, or do they go through the collar?
3) Are the slots in the replacement pins exactly the same as those in the original pins?
4) Are you using the same gauge of strings that the guitar had fitted when it left the factory?

Very pertinent questions! Sometimes it’s the wrap catching in the slot which is why it occurs most often with the low E. Check that the end of the wrap moves easily in the slot of the pin.

Also, if/when you get them all even in height ensure that when you do string changes in future that you keep the same pin for the same string.

[pieterh]

My Dad changed the pins on his Guild from the plastic/Micarta originals to ebony pins with abalone dots. I bought the guitar from him a few years later. I still have the originals but have only used one of them when an ebony one flew off while changing strings and ended up under some stage scenery. I retrieved it later and the guitar has had the ebony pins ever since (this was 1991!).

Depending on your guitar dark pins could look really good compared to the originals. Tusq will work well too of course though I have found the ebony ones to be a bit more resistant to wear and tear. I can’t remember of the top of my head if they come in black (saddles and nuts do).

[musicwu]

Originally Posted by JayBee1404

A few questions...

1) What make and model is your guitar?
2) Do the slots in the original pins end below the collar, or do they go through the collar?
3) Are the slots in the replacement pins exactly the same as those in the original pins?
4) Are you using the same gauge of strings that the guitar had fitted when it left the factory?

Thank you for your advice. Here are my answers:

1) it's a Maton EBG808TE 2017 model
2) the slots in the original pins go through the collar, which are the same as the TUSQ pins i'm using. (link for TUSQ pins : https://reverb.com/item/10849112-gra...r-of-pearl-dot
(mine are black with abalone dots but the size is the same)

link for Maton pins: https://maton.com.au/store/bone-nut-...ins-now-shaped)

3)I didn't actually measure the width of the slots but as you can see from the pictures, they are quite alike in general pattern? However, I've noticed the original pins come with a slight slope at the bottom, which may explain why they are easier to use than the tusq ones as strings are much less likely to get stuck below the pins.

4) Yes, i'm using the same gauge strings (Elixir nanoweb light 12-53)

[redir]

The important measurement is the taper. There are two tapers one is 5deg the other 3deg. If you are putting a 3 in a 5 then it could pop out. Popping out is a problem that should be fixed. The proper way to do this is to use non fluted bridge pins and cut in key hole slots. That way the ball end of the string locks securely in place where it belongs.

[musicwu]

Originally Posted by redir

The important measurement is the taper. There are two tapers one is 5deg the other 3deg. If you are putting a 3 in a 5 then it could pop out. Popping out is a problem that should be fixed. The proper way to do this is to use non fluted bridge pins and cut in key hole slots. That way the ball end of the string locks securely in place where it belongs.

That's indeed a nice point. But I did use the pins with the same taper, which is 3 deg.

[musicwu]

Originally Posted by pieterh

My Dad changed the pins on his Guild from the plastic/Micarta originals to ebony pins with abalone dots. I bought the guitar from him a few years later. I still have the originals but have only used one of them when an ebony one flew off while changing strings and ended up under some stage scenery. I retrieved it later and the guitar has had the ebony pins ever since (this was 1991!).

Depending on your guitar dark pins could look really good compared to the originals. Tusq will work well too of course though I have found the ebony ones to be a bit more resistant to wear and tear. I can’t remember of the top of my head if they come in black (saddles and nuts do).

I agree with you on the color thing. My guitar came with white plastic pins which looked ugly in my opinion so I bought some black tusq pins with abalone dots. Would be better if those dots were 4mm instead of 2! The new pins look great on the Maton. I used to own a Lakewood guitar that came with ebony pins with ebony dots that I regret letting go.

I actually would really like to try ebony pins on my Maton as well but can't find any nearby. I'll definitely try some later.

How's your Guild now? Does the pin for Low E hold well when you restring the guitar?

Enjoy your guitars!

[Lake Sagatagan]

When I decided to try new brass pegs on a forty-year-old guitar, the proprietor of Pinz said his had never failed to fit anybody's instrument. (I figured that if a guitar could have an unorthodox bridge, mine would be among them.) That is, most pin types are interchangeable.

[pieterh]

Originally Posted by musicwu

I agree with you on the color thing. My guitar came with white plastic pins which looked ugly in my opinion so I bought some black tusq pins with abalone dots. Would be better if those dots were 4mm instead of 2! The new pins look great on the Maton. I used to own a Lakewood guitar that came with ebony pins with ebony dots that I regret letting go.



I actually would really like to try ebony pins on my Maton as well but can't find any nearby. I'll definitely try some later.



How's your Guild now? Does the pin for Low E hold well when you restring the guitar?



Enjoy your guitars!

Yep, no problems with the Guild these days!