#16
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The binding may break when being removed, regluing it back on is traditionally done using binding glue and tape, but you can binding glue and elastic band wrap the neck Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#17
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Just to cover the basics, at least from my understanding, truss rods don't usually break so much as they tend to have the adjustment nut strip it's threads. If that's what's wrong, stewnC sells a thing for that.
Taking off and remounting a fret board is a really hard job to do well (with that I have real world experience) and I wouldn't attempt without, at least the supervision of someone who knows exactly what to expect. For instance, one of the complications I ran into was that the poly finish is thicker (and far stronger) than I expected and even though I'd heavily scored the joint line, it didn't come apart in a clean split. This caused larger air under the finish chips that I didn't expect to have to deal with. I would've been smarter to do the work as part of a repair course or hire a repair guy to oversee. |
#18
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I've already got binding tape in my shopping cart, but I'll have to go back for the glue. My issue though was with the trim sticking out over the top of the body. Because I can't get a band around it, is there some sort of clamp I should get for it? Should I try to put the trim back on the fretboard before I put the fretboard on the neck? Don't know if you can tell from this photo, but the binding has already started to separate from the fretboard in this area. Presumably because it was so dried out. Quote:
Quote:
Another question - how do I go about clamping the fretboard down to the body close to the sound hole? As in, the area pictured above.
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Last edited by thechoochlyman; 02-08-2018 at 09:10 AM. |
#19
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I think before I was ripping off the fingerboard, I’d first pull out the nut on the truss rod and have a good look at it.
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#20
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If it's a two way rod the nut is not removable. Not sure what was used on this era/model of Takamine.
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#21
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Wish I had connections with someone who could X-ray the neck for me, maybe we could tell for sure what's happening then.
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#22
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Maybe talk to your veterinarian or dentist, if you don't know a guitar playing doc......
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#23
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You can bind the fretboard before you put it on if you want, many ways to do things.
If your determined to do it, then just do it, do not overthink things, as a repairer we simply do, anything that goes wrong which it does, we deal with that if and when it happens Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#24
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Well, considering this is just a side project, I want to take time and examine all my options - because I don't know what they all are.
Could you suggest how I might clamp the fretboard down over the body?
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#25
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With just a couple of clamps through the soundhole.
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#26
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Kinda suspected. Thanks, Steve! You've been a great help. I really appreciate everything.
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#27
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Threads stripped.
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#28
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Been a long time coming, but I finally made some progress.
Ordered a custom-length truss rod from LMI which turned out great. Just had to make some shims to fit it in the already-too-wide neck slot. I glued all the pieces back in that lifted off under the fretboard and sanded smooth. It wasn't a long process between gluing on the binding (which was fairly difficult) and putting the fretboard back on. Only had one big "oops" with the finish on the neck The glue set up fine in 24 hours and I strung it back up. Unfortunately now I'm running into two problems: There is a pretty bad hump at the 14 fret neck joint, but only on the low E side. From the looks of it I just didn't have it clamped well enough, but there could have been an obstruction there I didn't see as well. And I'm really thinking now it needs a neck reset. I've been humidifying it in a plastic bag for almost four weeks, and although the top belly has improved, the neck angle looks absolutely terrible. All in all, the job went very well aside from some obvious mistakes on my part (which we all expected). I should have humidified the guitar in a bag long enough to see that it needed a neck reset before I glued the fretboard back on I should have been sure to have clamped it better where that hump is In an attempt to get all the buzzing out of the frets in the high register, I started filing on a few of them. But because it looks like the fretboard will have to come back off anyway, I guess I just added a whole new re-fret to the job once I get the neck angle right. Ugh... some projects never end. It crossed my mind again to just sell it for whatever money I could get out of it, but I decided to just press on until it's all just right. I've never done a neck reset either, so this will be good practice for me if nothing else. Most of the times I've seen, guitars need a neck reset because the action is too high, not too low. I'll be doing research on neck resets now, but what should I be on the lookout for with this job?
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#29
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Its a good learning experience is it not.
Now put yourself in our shoes, we need to do exactly what you have done, but the finish be as perfect as it was at the start of the job Who wants to be a luthier Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#30
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a few points of interest -
Prior to removing the binding, use an X-acto knife to score a line along the side where the binding and neck join, that might help save finish work later. The finish could be Urethane or nitro. Do a test spot first if touchup is needed.
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______________ ---Tom H --- |