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  #1  
Old 09-21-2014, 07:55 AM
sirwhale sirwhale is offline
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Default String windings over saddle BB L13

Hi I just took off the Elixirs the guitar came with and put on some Rotosound TruBronze (I thought that these were the "contact core" strings but they weren't) and the I found the string winding of the top two strings (E and B) to lie entirely over the saddle (by several mms). The third string was very close to coming over, just at its limit I would say. Needless to say, I didn't leave the top two on and got two from another rotosound pack of the same guage that I had (Jumbo kings) which fit fine.

I noticed on that the Elixirs I had on before the change had windings of the bottom two strings "close" (E and A) to the saddle too but not touching it. Does this guitar have an unusually short length for this area (it does have a slotted bridge) or is this pack of TruBronze strings just strangely long in windings?
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Old 10-03-2014, 01:29 PM
sirwhale sirwhale is offline
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I see that no one seems to have an answer for this. I've been out today to buy some new strings to see what would happen and ended up with some Ernie Balls. So the winding of the 6th E string comes over the saddle but doesn't appear to affect the intonation or tone. The 2nd B string winding also comes over the saddle (it is a compensated tusq saddle that comes with the L13). I haven't bothered putting that string on as the winding of the plain strings is much more irregular and certain it will cause problems.

Still nobody out there with any ideas?

http://postimg.org/image/6ll3nuvid/


Last edited by sirwhale; 10-03-2014 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 10-03-2014, 02:28 PM
Jmackay66 Jmackay66 is offline
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I had a CA ox awhile back that had the same deal.The windings on the low e & a string would contact or want to go all the way over the saddle. ( elixir 12s). So what I did was take the little ball ends off an old set of strings and slide them over the new string before installing them. That kept the windings from coming close to the saddle. That one had a slotted bridge and a graph tech saddle. The action was nice and low, also. I think the distance between the bridge holes and the saddle was just a tad close as I haven't had that problem with any other guitar I've had. I'm like you, I don't like the windings too close or on the saddle because it could cause premature wear to the saddle and possibly other problems. Hope this helps some.
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Old 10-03-2014, 02:35 PM
sirwhale sirwhale is offline
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The L13 I have has a slotted bridge and a graphtech compensated saddle too. I've just got the balls of the old strings and tomorrow I'll try out your new idea. I managed to deform the 2nd string while messing with it so I'll have to buy yet another set. So in the end you found that strings were fine with the additional ball?

Thanks

Last edited by sirwhale; 10-03-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 10-03-2014, 03:03 PM
Jmackay66 Jmackay66 is offline
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Yes, the extra ball ends hold the windings back a safe distance from the saddle. No problems after that.
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Old 10-04-2014, 12:58 AM
sirwhale sirwhale is offline
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Ok, so Joe replied quite quickly to email about this. I have a pre-2013 model, which is good for me as I play 100% finger picking blues. These models don't have a bridge plate, hence the shorter distance. Joe says he can upgrade to a bridge plate and a sound port for a fee but to be honest I'm not sure I want to do that as I like my guitar as it is now and I'm not sure what changes that would imply (anybody got any ideas). Joe recommends avoiding strings with long windings, the Elixirs I've had have short windings but also the idea above of placing additional ball on the string seems to have worked well and nobody seems to think that it will damage the guitar in anyway.

Cheers

Christian

Last edited by sirwhale; 10-05-2014 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 10-04-2014, 01:13 PM
Earl49 Earl49 is offline
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You might also consider something like this to add some extra thickness, maybe even two of them doubled-up.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...late_Mate.html
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Old 10-04-2014, 02:24 PM
Jmackay66 Jmackay66 is offline
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My CA didn't have a bridge plate either and the carbon fiber top was super thin, so that makes sense that without a plate the windings come thru farther. Might consider Earl49's suggestion as the CF tops,although thin ,are much tougher than wood tops . Didn't know they made a wood top guitar w/ out a bridge plate. Good luck whatever you decide.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:51 AM
sirwhale sirwhale is offline
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With the slotted bridge, and turning the bridge pins around 180 degrees to have the solid part touching the strings, the extra ball end is held in place very well now (just installed some new Martin Life Span lights). I'm really quite happy with the result and I've added an extra ball to each string just to keep things balanced. I even think that the additional ball end, as it is now lying flat against the guitar top, produces less pressure due to a higher surface area. With all this in mind plus a carbon fibre top, does anyone think that the top would wear away over time? would it still be a good idea to buy the brass plate from Stew Mac, or should I be worry free now?

Thanks
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