Has anyone modified the bracing of a Martin D-16?

[Neil K Walk]

Originally Posted by Hollowed_Wood

UPDATE:

I did finally get around to swapping in a bone saddle and nut. There was an immediate improvement - more bass, more sustain, more volume. A surprising amount, really. Then again, the saddle that comes stock on these guitar looks like it's molded plastic. I didn't hear a whole lot of change in the highs one way or the other.

I played it like that for awhile, still using D'addario lights. Then I swapped in some slotted bone bridge pins. Wanted to see how bone would change things before trying unslotted and slotting the bridge. The highs changed. There had been a bright ringing sound (the kind that one might associate with new strings) which disappeared. At first I thought it a little more dull, but later decided it was just more 'focused'. It also seems to take a little more of a pluck to get the strings to resonate, but when they do its a more clear tone, which I like.

So, the guitar has a much bigger, fuller sound, that's more focused and not unlike some D-28's I've played. The next time I have some time, I may consider swapping the bridge to see what happens, but for the moment, I am enjoying the sound of this guitar a lot more.

Thanks for the update. Sometimes little things like changing strings and the points where the strings make contact with the guitar (like the saddle, nut, pins and even the tuning machines) is all it takes. Plus, those mods are reverseable. Shaving braces is not.

BTW I would certainly leave the bridge alone. In order to remove it you have to apply heat and that could affect the lower legs of the X brace so it's best to leave it alone unless a repair is in order IMO. FWIW I've had my D-16GT for 10 years now. I don't necessarily like the faux ebony bridge either (because the edges are sharp,) but it's been stable; I've had rosewood bridges split from forcing pins in. Better to just smooth off the edges with sandpaper IMO.

[Hollowed_Wood]

Originally Posted by Neil K Walk

BTW I would certainly leave the bridge alone. In order to remove it you have to apply heat and that could affect the lower legs of the X brace so it's best to leave it alone unless a repair is in order IMO. FWIW I've had my D-16GT for 10 years now. I don't necessarily like the faux ebony bridge either (because the edges are sharp,) but it's been stable; I've had rosewood bridges split from forcing pins in. Better to just smooth off the edges with sandpaper IMO.

Duly noted. I'm satisfied with the sound enoguh to leave it alone until it needs a repair.

What year is your D-16? How is the neck angle? My saddle needed to be lowered more than I thought it would. Mines a 2010.

[redir]

Originally Posted by Hollowed_Wood

Always. I learned this working on engines. If you replace or adjust too many things at once, you'll never know which is having the positive or negative effect that's presenting.

Gosh I really wish I paid attention to this advice 6 months ago. My '94 E420 has been on jack stands since then. I threw a bunch of stuff at it at once and can't get the darn thing going!

Anyway glad you got your guitar sorted out.

[6ixxer]

Originally Posted by Hollowed_Wood

UPDATE:

I did finally get around to swapping in a bone saddle and nut. There was an immediate improvement - more bass, more sustain, more volume. A surprising amount, really. Then again, the saddle that comes stock on these guitar looks like it's molded plastic. I didn't hear a whole lot of change in the highs one way or the other.

I played it like that for awhile, still using D'addario lights. Then I swapped in some slotted bone bridge pins. Wanted to see how bone would change things before trying unslotted and slotting the bridge. The highs changed. There had been a bright ringing sound (the kind that one might associate with new strings) which disappeared. At first I thought it a little more dull, but later decided it was just more 'focused'. It also seems to take a little more of a pluck to get the strings to resonate, but when they do its a more clear tone, which I like.

So, the guitar has a much bigger, fuller sound, that's more focused and not unlike some D-28's I've played. The next time I have some time, I may consider swapping the bridge to see what happens, but for the moment, I am enjoying the sound of this guitar a lot more.

So I know you just changed the bridge pins to bone, but I have found ebony pins to really add some liveliness to my guitars. Also, bending the 1/2inch ball end of the string down at a 45ish degree angle before inserting them into the bridge seems to help with the consistency of sound across the strings. It seems to allow the strings to be more alive as the contact the bridge plate better.