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#2
12-07-2010, 06:31 AM
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Depends on the parts and the builder. 90% of the glue I use is Titebond, non waterproof. Easy work time, easy to correct mistakes. Epoxy for attaching the fingerboard. CA/Superglue can be your best friend. I always have thin and thick around.
The glue "to use" is Hide Glue. Its a hot glue that sets fast. Hide glue reqires perfectly matched surfaces. I haven't gotten up the nerve to work with it yet. There is LMI white glue folks really like, I had no luck with it. Tim McKnight wrote a lengthy indepth article on Glue and its sound transmission capabilities. It is in a back issue of Guitarmaker and possibly a link at his website McKnightguitars.com 
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#4
12-07-2010, 10:48 AM
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one thing about titebond is that it has a shelf life and a storage life.
http://www.titebond.com/FaqTB.asp I try to get the freshest possible by decoding the numbers on the bottle: ex: 0AXXXX 0=2010 A=Jan XXXX=stuff I don't know about
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#5
12-07-2010, 05:04 PM
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woody b politically incorrect since 1964
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#6
12-07-2010, 06:37 PM
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It depends. For a beginner I recomend LMI white. It is a great glue that has the benefit of not making seems too ugly. Titebond yellow glue is a great glue, but on a spruce center seem or bindings, it can create ugly finish problems.
__________________
“Reason is itself a matter of faith. It is an act of faith to assert that our thoughts have any relation to reality at all.” ― G.K. Chesterton
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#9
12-07-2010, 11:40 PM
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Hide glue certainly has the most mystique surrounding it, but in the end it's just glue, and with a good tight joint, a minuscule amount of it. I can hardly imagine a glue being elastic enough to affect tone, and all the good ones should be stronger than the wood, so... use whatever is easiest.
I personally like hide for most things, and LMI white for the rest. Hide is super strong, heat resistant unless moisturized, water resistant unless heated, dries fast, enables the ever convenient rub joint, you can vary the thickness depending on the job, it's friendly to repairmen, and forgiving to botched clamping jobs. I'd recommend hide to beginners just for that last point. Some things like a scarf jointed headstock are tricky to get clamped properly, so it's really nice being able to re-do if you mess up, without worrying about the glue drying on you. Just pull it apart, scrape off most of the gelled glue, slop on some more hot, and try again. Even if it dries entirely, you don't have to worry about getting back to bare wood before putting more glue on. I usually use LMI white for inlays. Easier than heating up the hide, and don't really need any of the other properties. Most people use CA though, so I should give that a try sometime. Also use it when I need more open time, I'm too lazy to heat up the hide glue, or I need to minimize squeeze-out (although some squeeze is preferable with just about any glue, hide is just less forgiving there). What I dislike the most about it is that it goes bad in about a year. It also starts to dry faster than I'd like, but not as fast as hide glue at least.
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#10
12-08-2010, 03:20 AM
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ok, snake oil & tradition aside.......
you want a glue that is easy to work with, dries in a reasonale amount of time, but can be loosened if you make a booboo.... hot hide does the above, but you need to heat it to start off. a white PVA type glue is great for almost all the jobs in making a guitar, so standard woodworkers glue is what I'd reccomend, and for a reset or a "whoops" moment, a clothes iron will warm it enough to release. epoxy is a NO as it's REALLY hard to release (though it can be done) and gorilla glue is just no good.
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#11
12-12-2010, 12:41 PM
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If you are going to use a PVA glue, at least use Titebond original (they call it aliphatic resin but it's still PVA).
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#12
12-16-2010, 03:44 PM
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Gorilla white wood glue held it the first time and he is playing it almost nightly in pubs down here in Sarasota.
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#13
12-17-2010, 11:32 AM
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"one thing about titebond is that it has a shelf life and a storage life.
http://www.titebond.com/FaqTB.asp" Yeah, but when you read the FAQ, they basically say the time limit is meaningless. A lot of the time, all that stuff means is that they haven't tested a product beyond a certain time. I mean, let's say the stuff is good for 100 years, how long do you figure a test like that might take. Anyway, +1 on your point, who wants to risk it. I used to have a big supply chain problem with titebond, but I can get it locally so I use the freshest stuff I can. Now would I use the old stuff on anything that wasn't going out the door, you bet! What actually happens around here is that it gets mixed with water and used for kid crafts. I have heard some bad stuff recently about CA. What is the news there? I hear it "evaporate" and people are having big repair problems. I would be really sorry to hear that since I loved doing bindings that way.
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#14
12-17-2010, 03:36 PM
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I think any of the PVAs or aliphatics have to be stored carefully - out of sunlight and kept from getting too hot or too cold. I've found people who keep their glue ( and finishes ) in the unheated basement or garage, and found that they go bad from heat/cold/humidity -
__________________
More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!!
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