Straight cow bone saddle blanks.

[Bax Burgess]

Any dependable sources for 3/32" thick blanks? Just received three overbowed 'beauties' from my usual retailer mail-order source. They have a good rep, and will more than likely send me replacements, but, sheesh, three out of three.

[nate clark]

It's very common for saddle blanks to develop a little cupping. Most of them need one face flattened and one edge squared (like prepping rough lumber) before you can thickness them. My solution has been to buy oversized blanks and use the luthiers friend sanding station with an oscillating spindle sander to thickness the blanks:

http://fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/m...hrough-saddle/

The same ends can be met sans power tools with sandpaper, files and a little elbow grease.

I like the LMI saddle blanks. Product number S0U is the only size I keep in stock because it works for just about all of the common guitars.

http://www.shoplmi.com/products/most...k/nuts-saddles

You can also buy this size from Allied Lutherie:

http://www.alliedlutherie.com/bone.htm

[Bax Burgess]

Thanks, Nate, for such complete info. Since I don't have a shop setup, I'm going to order some 3/32" blanks from those recommendations.The three overbowed ones at hand are unusable, too much would be lost post sanding.

[Ned Milburn]

As Nate states, ordering oversize is the best option. I now only order oversize, then I cut to size with my fine band-saw blade (yielding thin sheets of bone that I can use for decorative purposes), then I start levelling and thicknessing.

Since you say you don't have a shop, it is worthwhile to mention to you that it can all be done easily with just sandpaper laid face up on a flat surface. (MDF is fine.) Start with about 220 or even 180 for roughing out, and get to 320 or so for final thicknessing, and up to 800 or so for final finish. It really shouldn't take you too much time to do it 100% without power tools. (I myself have done this dozens of times without using my power tools.)

To ensure that the bottom of the saddle is level, use a squared block held on top of the sandpaper and flush the side of the saddle to this as you finish off the bottom of the saddle.

Easy peasy! ;-)

Good luck.

[WaddyT]

A couple of inexpensive mill b*****d files are a good investment for shaping and milling saddles and nuts from bone. If you can find an extra fine file, it's even better for subtle shaping. The files don't wear out and leave a pretty nice surface on bone that is easily polished out to a nice finish with something like MicroMesh pads, which are available at Woodcraft and other woodworking stores, or on line. I polish my bone up to 12000 on the Micromesh scale. Makes a nice shiny finish.

The software edited my post and put *******'s in for the word. I went back and added the b and d, hoping you'd understand. Stupid software doesn't know a standard term in tools when it sees it.

[charles Tauber]

I've had success with ba$$tard.