#16
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Having tried and used every type of countersink under the sun, the only one I would contemplate using for any operation in which the appearance of the countersunk hole is important is the snail countersink, which you can get in different sizes. The surface left is immaculate ...totally chatter free, and the countersink is as effective in metal as it is in wood.
The other great advantage of the snail countersink is that it can easily be sharpened with a round slipstone. Other types of countersink can be sharpened, but not with anything like the same ease. Hardware store countersinks are only suitable for countersinking screw holes (and then only when the screw heads are going to be hidden). |
#17
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Do you have a link to this murrmac? I've tried a lot of different ones too and have never been satisfied.
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Bryan |
#18
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Quote:
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#19
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As Murray said.
I use this one: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...306,41328&ap=1 Although a counterbore might be the more appropriate tool. A step drill will mess up the taper of the hole and not create a wide enough counterbore. StewMac sells a tool that is basically one of the combination drill/countersinks with a collar on it. Don't get it--it will mar the top of your bridge and not cut as finished a surface as the countersnk above.
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#20
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I use the same one as Howard. Single fluted are the best way to go. Much smoother cutting.
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything |
#21
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The one Howard linked to would be the one to get since you are in the US... the one in the pic is similar in function to the Lee Valley , but manufactured in Germany.
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