#31
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For my ear, I'd want Mahogany, Koa or Walnut.....probably in that order
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"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#32
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Quote:
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PS. I love guitars! |
#33
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[QUOTE=Alan Carruth;6449197]The problem is that it's so easy to make a bad guitar out of good wood: I've seen a lot of those. [QUOTE]
I've owned a few! One of the downfalls of online purchases (no audition before buying)
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"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" Last edited by fitness1; 07-26-2020 at 01:44 PM. |
#34
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I’ve owned 2 nice redwood OM guitars made by the same builder (Bourgeois). One was redwood/EIR the other redwood/walnut. Both were great guitars. I always thought the walnut had a deeper richer tone, but that could be attributed to many factors. Nice guitars that are easy on the eyes.
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#35
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The first Redwood-topped guitar I played was an OM HighLander built by Tim McKnight. The back and sides were Cocobolo. That instrument really turned me on to the magic of Redwood and now I play a Lucky Strike Redwood over Cocobolo OM built by Michael Bashkin. So in my experience Cocobolo is worth considering.
But it really comes down to the experience your luthier has with Redwood. |
#36
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There were supposed to be some blank spaces in that quote, it's :"Shoveling against the tide" You can probably fill in the blank....
The main problem with redwood is that, like WRC, it's prone to cracking. Although it's often said to be soft and low in density, almost all of the redwood I've seen, including all the the LS, was very simliar in density and hardness to Red or Sitka spruce. It's not as good for classicals as WRC, but better for steel strings, IMO. I like to use walnut for the bridge on the redwood top; the lower density allows for a larger bridge without too much weight, and the bigger footprint keeps the stress along the back edge of the bridge down, so it's less likely to peel off. Last edited by TomB'sox; 07-26-2020 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Yes Alan, that is not allowed which is why I removed it before. |