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  #16  
Old 12-18-2022, 02:05 AM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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As per SM kit instruction, started with sides. Using a 12mm toughened glass as flat surface.

I see a hairline between joints on neck and tail block. I tried to be a luthier, but the gap increased
Some how managed.

But as i putted weight on sides, they were perfect, not fully align , but acceptable. Mark the center line with vernier.

https://flic.kr/p/2o6vuPD
Made two clamp coul

https://flic.kr/p/2o6qpsL
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  #17  
Old 12-18-2022, 02:10 AM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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https://flic.kr/p/2o6ubNg

https://flic.kr/p/2o6ubQA

Do the dry run and decide to glue tail block first, because I don't have much clamps.
After gluing tail block, next day glued neck block

Last edited by MVeena; 01-15-2023 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Pics not showing
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  #18  
Old 12-18-2022, 06:36 AM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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A gap between the sides at the neck and tail block is not a problem because they get filled by the end graft and the neck.
Are you not using a mold to keep the sides straight? https://www.flickr.com/photos/194462...7720296630125/
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2022, 07:12 AM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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Yes , i realised , that gap is not a issue, but I sanded one side to square , but i mesh up, so stopped.
This is a kit, so don't have mould, but sides are perfect square with surface as i checked.
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2022, 08:35 AM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVeena View Post
Yes , i realised , that gap is not a issue, but I sanded one side to square , but i mesh up, so stopped.
This is a kit, so don't have mould, but sides are perfect square with surface as i checked.
Some use a cardboard form inside the guitar to prevent springback on the sides so they maintain the correct shape.
Good Luck
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  #21  
Old 12-19-2022, 12:52 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Congratulations!

FWIW I've built two guitars from scratch and have embarked on a third so I'm pretty tooled up but still feel like I'd like to do a rosewood/sitka dreadnought kit. Given that for the longest time I've wanted a similar dreadnought from Martin but there's always been at least one features that I felt was lacking. For example, I have long been underwhelmed by their choices in materials for some parts but felt that any guitar from the custom shop was vastly inflated in price

After having gone through the process and going through decades of sticker shock on finished guitars I've constantly read about others who have continually flipped guitars in search of "The One." Though my builds haven't quite measured up to the quality of some of the higher end guitars that I've been allowed to sample, I feel completely comfortable with handling and playing my builds without any fear of damage just as I have with intermediate level guitars costing up to $3K. Also, quite frankly I don't feel like buying or commissioning a guitar not built with my own hands would give me the same sense of satisfaction. My only misgiving has been that I never truly feel that they're "finished" and that I often doubt my own abilities through a form of "imposter syndrome." That being said, my first guitar seems to be fully settled in and has become notably seasoned.

I hope you feel the same way about this kit. Let us know how you feel with your results.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023)
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2022, 02:05 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil K Walk View Post
Congratulations!

FWIW I've built two guitars from scratch and have embarked on a third so I'm pretty tooled up but still feel like I'd like to do a rosewood/sitka dreadnought kit. Given that for the longest time I've wanted a similar dreadnought from Martin but there's always been at least one features that I felt was lacking. For example, I have long been underwhelmed by their choices in materials for some parts but felt that any guitar from the custom shop was vastly inflated in price


I hope you feel the same way about this kit. Let us know how you feel with your results.
If I were in the market for a rosewood sitka kit, this one appears to be decent value.
https://www.lmii.com/discounted-read...y-to-ship.html
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  #23  
Old 12-30-2022, 09:32 PM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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I am making 28 Feet and 20 Feet radius disk for this guitar. I have glued 2 piece of 2x2 feet MDF ( 18 mm ).

Here i need suggestion from you, if I route radius disk on both side of glued pieces, gap between center will be between 15 mm to 18 mm, it's ok or make seperate disk?
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2022, 10:06 PM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/192348...res/F37HD3W5b6

Last edited by MVeena; 01-15-2023 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Pic not showing
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  #25  
Old 12-30-2022, 11:13 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVeena View Post
I am making 28 Feet and 20 Feet radius disk for this guitar. I have glued 2 piece of 2x2 feet MDF ( 18 mm ).

Here i need suggestion from you, if I route radius disk on both side of glued pieces, gap between center will be between 15 mm to 18 mm, it's ok or make seperate disk?
I have built 7acoustic guitars from scratch and just started # 8 & 9 without a radius dish, not sure why you'd need one for a kit but 18mm should be pretty solid for mdf. You could always add a 3rd layer.
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  #26  
Old 01-15-2023, 08:45 AM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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Need help and suggestion, just seen the Rosewood back supplied with kit and measured. The drawing barely fits into it, no margin at some places, so i am confused , that should I asked stewmac or it's manageable.

Here is the pics.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/192348...res/196Ecv0877

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  #27  
Old 01-15-2023, 08:47 AM
MVeena MVeena is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fathand View Post
I have built 7acoustic guitars from scratch and just started # 8 & 9 without a radius dish, not sure why you'd need one for a kit but 18mm should be pretty solid for mdf. You could always add a 3rd layer.
Actually, i dont have many clamps specially wooden long cam clamps, so i made these disks
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  #28  
Old 01-15-2023, 02:47 PM
JonWint JonWint is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVeena View Post
Need help and suggestion, just seen the Rosewood back supplied with kit and measured. The drawing barely fits into it, no margin at some places, so i am confused , that should I asked stewmac or it's manageable.

The rim is flexible. Shape it to fit the back. You'll need to have some way to hold it in position for gluing; a mold or dowels in a board.

Last edited by JonWint; 01-15-2023 at 03:48 PM.
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  #29  
Old 01-15-2023, 09:14 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVeena View Post
Actually, i dont have many clamps specially wooden long cam clamps, so i made these disks
I dont have many long clamps either. I glue 2 or 3 braces, come back in 3 hours and glue the next 2 or 3. But if you've already made the discs, go for it, its the new way.
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  #30  
Old 01-15-2023, 09:19 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVeena View Post
Need help and suggestion, just seen the Rosewood back supplied with kit and measured. The drawing barely fits into it, no margin at some places, so i am confused , that should I asked stewmac or it's manageable.

Here is the pics.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/192348...res/196Ecv0877

If it smaller than your template by more than the width of your binding and purfling, then it might be too small. If you are building a style 28, your binding and purfling should total about 1/8" or 3mm. Check once it's in the mold.
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