#16
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As per SM kit instruction, started with sides. Using a 12mm toughened glass as flat surface.
I see a hairline between joints on neck and tail block. I tried to be a luthier, but the gap increased Some how managed. But as i putted weight on sides, they were perfect, not fully align , but acceptable. Mark the center line with vernier. https://flic.kr/p/2o6vuPD Made two clamp coul https://flic.kr/p/2o6qpsL |
#17
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https://flic.kr/p/2o6ubNg
https://flic.kr/p/2o6ubQA Do the dry run and decide to glue tail block first, because I don't have much clamps. After gluing tail block, next day glued neck block Last edited by MVeena; 01-15-2023 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Pics not showing |
#18
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A gap between the sides at the neck and tail block is not a problem because they get filled by the end graft and the neck.
Are you not using a mold to keep the sides straight? https://www.flickr.com/photos/194462...7720296630125/ |
#19
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Yes , i realised , that gap is not a issue, but I sanded one side to square , but i mesh up, so stopped.
This is a kit, so don't have mould, but sides are perfect square with surface as i checked. |
#20
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Quote:
Good Luck |
#21
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Congratulations!
FWIW I've built two guitars from scratch and have embarked on a third so I'm pretty tooled up but still feel like I'd like to do a rosewood/sitka dreadnought kit. Given that for the longest time I've wanted a similar dreadnought from Martin but there's always been at least one features that I felt was lacking. For example, I have long been underwhelmed by their choices in materials for some parts but felt that any guitar from the custom shop was vastly inflated in price After having gone through the process and going through decades of sticker shock on finished guitars I've constantly read about others who have continually flipped guitars in search of "The One." Though my builds haven't quite measured up to the quality of some of the higher end guitars that I've been allowed to sample, I feel completely comfortable with handling and playing my builds without any fear of damage just as I have with intermediate level guitars costing up to $3K. Also, quite frankly I don't feel like buying or commissioning a guitar not built with my own hands would give me the same sense of satisfaction. My only misgiving has been that I never truly feel that they're "finished" and that I often doubt my own abilities through a form of "imposter syndrome." That being said, my first guitar seems to be fully settled in and has become notably seasoned. I hope you feel the same way about this kit. Let us know how you feel with your results.
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#22
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https://www.lmii.com/discounted-read...y-to-ship.html |
#23
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I am making 28 Feet and 20 Feet radius disk for this guitar. I have glued 2 piece of 2x2 feet MDF ( 18 mm ).
Here i need suggestion from you, if I route radius disk on both side of glued pieces, gap between center will be between 15 mm to 18 mm, it's ok or make seperate disk? |
#24
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Last edited by MVeena; 01-15-2023 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Pic not showing |
#25
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#26
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Need help and suggestion, just seen the Rosewood back supplied with kit and measured. The drawing barely fits into it, no margin at some places, so i am confused , that should I asked stewmac or it's manageable.
Here is the pics. https://www.flickr.com/photos/192348...res/196Ecv0877 |
#27
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Actually, i dont have many clamps specially wooden long cam clamps, so i made these disks
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#28
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The rim is flexible. Shape it to fit the back. You'll need to have some way to hold it in position for gluing; a mold or dowels in a board. Last edited by JonWint; 01-15-2023 at 03:48 PM. |
#29
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I dont have many long clamps either. I glue 2 or 3 braces, come back in 3 hours and glue the next 2 or 3. But if you've already made the discs, go for it, its the new way.
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#30
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