Saddles

NY Deadhead · #1 01-10-2021, 11:03 AM

Hi all. Not sure if this is the correct location. I don't claim to now what most, if not all here, now. That is why I ask a lot of questions. Sorry. So if I want to have my saddle changed, and it doesn't have a "compensation" in it than I would not order one that had it. correct?? I want to change out the plastic for a Tusq. The guitar is mid 90's so it's time. Besides I like to tinker with all my toys. Thanks

sam.spoons · #2 01-10-2021, 11:14 AM

Assuming a steel strung guitar with a wound 3rd then a compensated saddle will probably improve the intonation even if the guitar didn't have one originally but it would depend on how the built in compensation was applied and the precise design of the compensated saddle. Personally I wouldn't worry about it unless the intonation currently bothers you so stick with what currently works and buy a non compensated saddle.

Things to consider, a new saddle will not be the correct hight for your guitar so you will have to sand or file it to get the action right. The usual procedure is to sand material off the bottom 'cos it's easier to keep it flat than it is to sand the correct profile on top. But, if you have an under saddle pickup fitted, it's important that the bottom of the saddle is completely flat or you might get imbalances in string to string volume. B-Band film transducers are particularly bad for this because they are extremely thin and don't compress, piezo's are a little more forgiving.

charles Tauber · #3 01-10-2021, 11:58 AM

Guitar frets are placed according to a mathematical formula that assumes the vibration of an "ideal" string. In the real world, strings don't behave as "ideal" strings. In the real world, if the nut and saddle are placed in positions given by the mathematical formula, the guitar will play with pitches that are sharp. To counter the pitches playing sharp, the usual approach is to lengthen the vibrating string length by moving the saddle. This is known as compensation at the saddle, or just "compensation".

How much a string needs to be lengthened to compensate for the increase in pitch depends upon a number of factors: it isn't one universal amount, and is a different amount for each string.

There are different levels of compensation, each aimed at successively more accurately adjusting the string length to counter the overly-sharp pitches. Nearly all guitars have the saddle positioned by the manufacturer to lengthen all of the strings. Many guitars have the saddle slanted towards the bass strings to increase the length of the bass strings more than the treble strings. Many guitars angle where on a narrow saddle the strings break over the saddle - giving a millimetre or more additional length to the bass strings beyond the slant of the saddle. Fewer guitars have a "notch" that additionally lengthens the second (B) string. Fewer, still, have the saddle shaped to adjust the length of each individual string. Done correctly, each of these will successively increase the accuracy of intonation - the ability of the instrument to play the desired pitches.

Buying a "compensated" saddle provides some closer approximation than buying a "non-compensated" saddle. For the best intonation, the amount of compensation required needs to be set for a specific instrument, string height, and string type and gauge. Buying a "compensated" saddle might get you closer to better intonation on a particular instrument, or it might not. It depends upon the specifics of the instrument, its setup and choice of strings.

Most guitars are setup to have relatively inaccurate intonation. Most players don't seem to care or just accept it.

NY Deadhead · #4 01-10-2021, 11:59 AM

Thanks. I will have it done, but I will order the new saddle from Graph-tech. I will order what I've been using for years. I have a caliper to measure.

edcmat-l1 · #5 01-10-2021, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NY Deadhead

Thanks. I will have it done, but I will order the new saddle from Graph-tech. I will order what I've been using for years. I have a caliper to measure.

That's first step, you have a set of calipers so you can measure the existing saddle. You didn't mention what kind or brand of guitar this is. As a general rule, most lower end "import" guitars benefit from a compensated saddle up grade. Most important thing is make sure you get it installed correctly. If you're pretty handy it's not that difficult of a job. If you don't trust yourself enough to do it it's not an expensive job either. Good luck.

NY Deadhead · #6 01-10-2021, 12:39 PM

It's a Takamine FP360SC from the mid 90's I'm handy but I don't trust myself to do it right. I will have local luthier doing it. I just want to order the right saddle.

Mirosh · #7 01-10-2021, 12:58 PM

You also need to know what size (Height, Width, Depth or thickness) you want it to be (or become after fitting) and what radius its top should be.

If your luthier can tell you what to get and you bring it to him/her it may mean you're without your guitar for a shorter time. If that's not a big factor, maybe leave it all up to the luthier, including ordering a saddle if need be.

As far as intonation, you could analyze it now, decide how you'd want it different, and what saddle top contour would help. The top can be filed to adjust the string length and thereby intonation, a little bit anyway.