Clay trick for under saddle pickup - how to get level?

[bpbpbp]

I have a Fender JG-26SCE with under saddle pickup. I've had a bone saddle shaped and it looks identical to my original one. I've used a very small strip of red mexican clay under the pickup and a little on top. However, having restrung it the saddle now leans towards the neck.

Could this be due to the clay adding too much height to the saddle?

[Brackett Instruments]

First, get rid of the clay. Why upgrade to a bone saddle, then put clay under it? The saddle may fit the slot too loose, but I'd get rid of the clay first.

[bpbpbp]

Ok I'll give it a try. I've read the clay tip loads of times on various forums, for improving the sound/effectiveness of the under saddle pickup.

[Brackett Instruments]

Clay isn't necessary. What's necessary is a properly routed saddle slot and a properly fitting saddle.

[Bob V]

Lose the clay; none of the reputable UST manufacturers say anything about it in their instructions. When you fit a saddle, make sure it has a 'slip fit,' meaning that it should just barely want to slip out if you turn the guitar over - this way there's nothing stopping the strings from pressing down fully on the saddle. However if it's leaning, then it's too loose. On the other hand, some manufacturer's recommend that you plan for a small degree of tilt and sand the bottom of the saddle at an angle.

Most important is to make sure you have a flat reference surface, like a cast-iron jointer bed or a piece of float (plate) glass or a flat scrap of granite (check it with a machinist's straight edge). Lay the sandpaper on the flat surface and then rub the saddle to make sure it's flat. If you have strings that are too loud or too dull, you may have uneven loading issues, but it just illustrates just how finicky a UST is with respect to how cleanly the saddle is fit.

I'm assuming that the slot is the proper depth, and the addition of the pickup does not leave more than 1/2 of the saddle sticking out. If that becomes a problem then you need a special routing jig to cut a deeper, flatter slot. Many installers get away with cutting the saddle and slapping it in the original slot, and to be honest sometimes that's not a mistake. But it can be.

[wthurman]

There are various tricks... clay is nothing but a mess. One thing I do after sanding is to make sure it's absolutely flat by holding the saddle against a high-precision tri-square handle, than holding it up to a light. Any light bleed, it's not entirely flat. It's amazing how easy it is to put a curve, even slightly, on the bottom of a saddle.

I simply don't used UST's anymore... to paraphrase Woody, why would I use bone or some other exotic material and put something between it and the wood?