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#16
10-12-2010, 04:15 AM
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We ought to have a beginners contest. We'll call it "The Bleeders Cup" lol
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#17
10-12-2010, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
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#18
10-16-2010, 12:29 PM
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Thank Heaven, I got the binding and purfling channels cut with no mishaps!!!!!
Major breakthru for me after the disaster. The Bleeders Cup continues with another episode. Here's a couple of pics. On top are the purfling strips that will be used as well as a piece of binding.   It's really hard to see the channels, but they are actually pretty smooth and very consistent around all edges. Man am I glad this came out well. I used a Bosch Colt and KMG binding/purfling jig to rout them. It's set up with a "fence" that rides along the sides. There's a piece that lays on the top and is a bit flexible to account for the top's radius. Here's a link to it: http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/portattach.html It's almost impossible to dig in too deep into the body, and if properly set and secured (which I probably didn't do the first time), impossible to cut the channels too deep into the sides. As long as you register the fence along the sides, the channels come out great. I've opened another thread requesting help on controlling and gluing 5 separate pieces of purfling/binding, and have gotten great responses. The question is whether to use fish glue or white glue. And the problem is, fish glue might be hard to come by out here. Plus I don't know how to heat and properly use it if it could be found. Yet. If someone reads this who hasn't read the other thread, is bottled fish glue good enough or is "real" glue needed? Thanks for looking, Bob
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#19
10-17-2010, 07:33 PM
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The purfling is on! It was not hard to do because I had an extra set of hands - my wife's.
I used super glue at the tail wedge, then white glue for the rest. Since CA sets up so quick and wicks down the line, I was afraid that a section might not get set up properly and couldn't be corrected. After the CA, I's put some glue on the top of the 4 pieces of purfling (3 for the back), then my wife would separate them and let the glue slip in between the strands. I'd put glue on the ledges. With plenty of tape hanging on the side of the table, it was a matter of just wiping off the excess glue, applying tape, and continuing on. We did between 3 and 6" at a time. With short sections like that, we were able to control squeeze out pretty good. There'll be some cleanup tomorrow, but not much. Since the strands of purfling were only long enough to 1/2 the top or back, butting them together meant making sure the ends were square. Just cut with a chisel and sand it off or use a very small file. Overall, it all went well. Tomorrow will tell if I left any gaps.  Bob
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#20
10-17-2010, 09:25 PM
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Way to go! I hope it all works out. Kudos for getting your wife involved. You're a lucky man indeed.
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#21
10-18-2010, 06:05 PM
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Thanks Kwak, I'm afraid to tell her that tho
 I am glad that she's helping even in a small way. Her encouragement is pretty important, and this will be a gift to our daughter from both of us. I put down the purfling yesterday, as shown above, and when I pulled back the tape today I was pleasantly surprised. The purfling is flush everywhere! Wow! First the front:  White/bloodwood/white/bloodwood Now the back:  White/bloodwood/white One thing to watch for, if your channel isn't deep enough, the strip closest to you (or strips) will want to slide down. There were some areas where I didn't get the channel as deep as it should be, and I was seeing that happen. I did compensate for it, but there's one part on the upper bout bass side that looks a bit low. Once the binding is on, I'll go back and slip another strip in there if I can. When shaved down, it will be fine. I didn't get in until late tonight because of a knucklehead contracting to us, so the binding will have to wait. There's sanding of the sides of the purfling and making sure no glue is in the binding channel. That'll take a while. Sure gets messy using white glue, but looking at it, it's well worth it. I love the effect. I called Steve Kinnaird on Saturday and he called me back a bit later and I picked his brain on this. He suggested the Elmer's Glue-All. It seems thinner than Titebond, but has more open time, plus it dries clear. His tips and advice really helped me along on this. Gracias amigo! By the way, the StewMac brown tape is pretty sticky. I could see very small "hairs" come off of the rosewood. So I started using a hair dryer on the spruce, with no problem except it left some adhesive residue in a few spots. They scrape off easily. Thanks for looking, Bob
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#22
10-18-2010, 07:23 PM
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Looks good so far, Bob. Couldn't you have done the binding and purfling all at once though, or were you just being cautious?
I'm not trying to be critical. I'm just curious because I figure that by the time I get to that point in my first build I'm going to be pretty impatient and want to rush. If doing it in steps produces better results then I'd be all for it.
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#23
10-18-2010, 08:17 PM
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It was the first time I'd done this type, with 3 or 4 strips. My other one was herringbone that was already bent to shape, and I did that and the binding together.
Also, it was suggested by Steve, and maybe a couple of others. I would do it the same way again, unless I really get good at it. It's just a caution thing. It's tempting to do it faster, and I do with some aspects of building right now, but that was one I wasn't comfortable with. You're exercising a lot more patience than I have. I've no doubt your's is going to be super.
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#24
10-18-2010, 08:53 PM
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Looks good, Bob. Glad to help.
Steve
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#25
10-18-2010, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
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#26
10-24-2010, 03:58 PM
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After gluing and taping the binding, I took it off the next day. Couldn't get to it until today, but have cleaned up most everything, and getting ready to final sand before sealing, pore filling, finishing.
Here's the top:   The discoloration on the top was from sanding sealer used to try to keep bloodwood/rosewood dust off the top. It'll come off when I sand down prior to final sealing. And now the back:  Closeup:  And finally the sides:  How far with grits do luthiers usually go when sanding prior to the finishing? I was thinking 320, but if 400 or more is needed, I'll surely do it. The binding job had some imperfections, but nothing I can't cover up. My cleaning of glue squeeze out could have been better. All part of learning. I've spent over 4 hours today sanding, scraping, fixing things with more time to go. But it's really fun. The guitar is about ready for the final stages and it gets more exciting every minute. Thanks for looking, Bob
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#27
10-24-2010, 06:00 PM
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It looks great, Bob. I can't see the imperfections you speak of so don't sweat it too much.
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#29
10-24-2010, 08:08 PM
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I usually go to 220 before pore filling, 320 prior to paint. Be sure to rub it down with naptha or mineral spirits before pore filling to show all the tiny glue spots. Fix EVERYTHING before pore filling 'cause it'll bug you forever if you don't........
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#30
10-25-2010, 02:00 PM
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Wow, looks great.
I run a razor blade gently down the trench on both sides. Kinda digging into the corner of the cut. Its amazing how much little loose stuff still comes out. I am gonna steal the super glue in the hard spots, wifes hands involved thing. I used white glue the whole way around on #2 and had to "customize" a spot or two.
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