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  #31  
Old 12-30-2019, 09:32 PM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Once I got a chance to take a look at home, I found that, having had some time to settle, the relief was now negative (they had really cranked on it at the shop).

I tried to loosen up the truss rod and could not move it with my bare hands using the ball end hex wrenches that I typically use.

I had to go find a little piece of pipe as a persuader... thing did not want to move. It's currently sitting at .003".
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  #32  
Old 12-31-2019, 04:08 AM
nikpearson nikpearson is offline
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Default It shouldn’t need that much force.

You shouldn’t need to crank the truss rod that hard to tighten or loosen it. If you do I’d suggest something is awry. 0.003” would be considered too flat by most.

Not sure I’d want the technician who cranked the truss rod to work on one of my instruments. Maybe contact Martin and get some advice.
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  #33  
Old 12-31-2019, 06:43 AM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikpearson View Post
You shouldn’t need to crank the truss rod that hard to tighten or loosen it. If you do I’d suggest something is awry. 0.003” would be considered too flat by most.

Not sure I’d want the technician who cranked the truss rod to work on one of my instruments. Maybe contact Martin and get some advice.
I agree on all counts.

Everything I've learned about it says not to force the truss rod. When I got it home I couldn't turn it either direction without help. I'm a pretty strong guy, and I feel like if I can't turn it with a normal hex wrench without gaining a leverage advantage, I'm getting into the realm of forcing it.

That was the point it was at previously when I said it was as tight as it would go... it was to the point where I could not turn it further using a hex wrench without getting into the realm of what I would consider forcing it. But apparently that's all the guy at the shop did; this was not the actual repair guy, who was apparently too busy to be bothered, it was just the guy at the counter who consulted with me.

I haven't looked yet today, but I was hoping that .003" would relax a bit more over night to closer to .005".

I'm kind of disillusioned about this whole thing at the moment.

I have a friend who's a luthier and trusted repair guy, but unfortunately he's about half a continent away at this point. Maybe I'll at least talk to him about it.
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Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A
(Call me Dan)
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  #34  
Old 12-31-2019, 01:54 PM
Howard Klepper Howard Klepper is offline
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relief of .003 is not negative, and not bad. It would be optimal for some players. Why are you trying to change it? And how are you measuring?

We are still talking about a guitar that has not been set up or even looked at by a good professional tech.
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2020, 09:48 AM
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warfrat73 warfrat73 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Klepper View Post
relief of .003 is not negative, and not bad. It would be optimal for some players. Why are you trying to change it? And how are you measuring?

We are still talking about a guitar that has not been set up or even looked at by a good professional tech.
I'm measuring by putting a capo on the 1st fret, holding down the low E string at the 15th fret and measuring with a feeler gauge at the 7th fret.

It was negative when I got it home (7th fret actually deflecting the low E string), I backed it off and left it ~.003 overnight to see where it settled. It stayed stable I then backed it off to a bit closer to ~.006 for the time being.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder

Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A
(Call me Dan)

Last edited by warfrat73; 01-01-2020 at 10:17 AM.
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