Lowering action on Nut

[Theleman]

I have this vintage Hondo Acoustic from 1980s. It has highish action on the 1st fret, which means the nut is too high? What would be best method lowering it?

I could imagine, the obvious one would be to take the nut off, and sand the base, and reglue it?

Or leave the nut, and cut the string groove deeper? - But I don't have right tools for that, or could I just use knife or file for this job?

What would be best way to do this job? Thanks

[JLS]

Let a pro do it.

[Truckjohn]

Plastic nuts - sand the bottom down a bit. When you are happy - reattach with 1 drip of white Elmer's school glue.

Capo the 2nd or 3rd fret to check your progress.. The goal is to have just the slightest gap at the 1st fret when capo'ed at the 2nd or 3rd.... You don't want the strings touching the higher frets when fretting or you will get weir annoying buzzes..

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by JLS

Let a pro do it.

There is no guitar tech in my area. Nearest one I found is at about 2 hours driving distance.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

Plastic nuts - sand the bottom down a bit. When you are happy - reattach with 1 drip of white Elmer's school glue.

Capo the 2nd or 3rd fret to check your progress.. The goal is to have just the slightest gap at the 1st fret when capo'ed at the 2nd or 3rd.... You don't want the strings touching the higher frets when fretting or you will get weir annoying buzzes..

Great thank you.

[capohk]

I use Frank Ford's method for this and was successful first time of trying. You will need a set of needle files or nut files to do a good job of this, but they aren't expensive.

NB: It is important to get the set up right - I tend to do the nut last in order of set up.

I also use a half pencil sharpened and laid flat side down on the first 2 frets to draw a pencil line across the face of the nut. This gives me a 'low-tide' mark to work towards when I am making my adjustments with the file.

No reason not to have a go at this yourself - worst case scenario, you need a new bone blank for a couple of bucks, rinse and repeat. Best of luck.

[Mr. Jelly]

I recently finished work on my Martin nut. On my guitar not anyone here on AGF. I didn't want to do it but I was pushed into it by circumstances a little like yours. My story wouldn't be your story but I do have advice as to how to go about it. I did a net and YouTube study on the subject. I watched every YouTube video I could find on the subject. I read the net articles and what was discussed in the past about the subject on UOMF and AGF. I then modified a lesson or lessons that I had learned so that it fit my situation and available tools. It worked out great. Luckily.
The up side of this is that now I feel confident I can make most any healthy guitar play and feel better. Which opens the door on future purchases. Once you learn this and have some experience you may find yourself working on your old guitars and making them play better.

[Theleman]

Sure. I see some nut files sets for guitars on Amazon for cheap price, so maybe one of the sets could be used for the job?

Then maybe I don't have to take out the existing nut, and reglue after sanding it down?

I am not sure which is better method. But using the nut file set sounds maybe easier and quicker?


Yes, I think when I can learn to do these stuff, and get the old and cheap guitars sounding nice and playable would be great way to learn about guitars and also getting good satisfaction when playing self repaired guitars, as well as saving some money.

[Otterhound]

Using a .010 guitar string , form a loop .
This loop will be placed under each individual string after that string has been plucked . Do this at the first fret .
Gradually lower the string slot until you have an interference with the loop .
Repeat this process for each string .
At this level , you should have a very playable instrument .
Of course , you may go lower , but this will provide a consistent , safe and reliable starting point for some fine tuning if desired .

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by Otterhound

Using a .010 guitar string , form a loop .
This loop will be placed under each individual string after that string has been plucked . Do this at the first fret .
Gradually lower the string slot until you have an interference with the loop .
Repeat this process for each string .
At this level , you should have a very playable instrument .
Of course , you may go lower , but this will provide a consistent , safe and reliable starting point for some fine tuning if desired .

Great advice. Thank you.

I have ordered the file set.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And also the guitar gauge ruler.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Incredible that Amazon will deliver them by tonight via Prime service.

[Theleman]

Not sure what the 32 Blades Metric and Imperial Feller Gauge is for.

[Truckjohn]

Look here.
http://www.bryankimsey.com/nuts/index.htm

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

Look here.
http://www.bryankimsey.com/nuts/index.htm

Great info thanks.

My Hondo's nut is just needing a tiny bit lowered on the string grooves. My pinky is catching with the 1st string when I play E7 chord due to highish action on the first fret.

I think the file set I ordered can do the job - just making the grooves tiny little bit 0.5mm down?

I have another project guitar, which needs new saddle and nut. That will need a new nut cut and set like the page. Would I need different file set for that?

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by Theleman

Great advice. Thank you.

I have ordered the file set.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And also the guitar gauge ruler.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Incredible that Amazon will deliver them by tonight via Prime service.

Wow, ordered the tools at 4pm, and they were delivered at 8pm. Impressed with the Amazon Prime delivery service.

[Mr. Jelly]

Be advised plastic nuts file down ultra fast. Make one swipe and check it before moving on.