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  #31  
Old 08-01-2018, 10:03 AM
HHP HHP is offline
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Originally Posted by harpspitfire View Post
my interest in photo is macro and astronomy, i really have no choice but DSLR, however for me, i dont need massive pixels like 18-24meg, it really serves no purpose unless id blow up a gigantic poster, mine is 15 meg, with the pixel sensor of 4.7um, all the newer T?i series have more meg while dropping to about 4.1um size, i need the larger size for low light sensitivity and higher dynamic range, for astro i do image when its as dark as possible with a light pollution filter- (making it darker yet)
You do have a choice. Most of the higher end mirrorless designs have macro lenses available. Might even be better for astronomy as there is no mirror slap during exposure. Plus, the typical EVF shows you what the sensor sees in terms of exposure and effects.
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  #32  
Old 08-01-2018, 11:59 AM
Tico Tico is offline
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You do have a choice. Most of the higher end mirrorless designs have macro lenses available. Might even be better for astronomy as there is no mirror slap during exposure. Plus, the typical EVF shows you what the sensor sees in terms of exposure and effects.
About mirrorless cameras and the mirror slap of DSLRs ...

DSLRs do have a mirror that sends the light up to the optical viewfinder for composing the pic.
This mirror must lift out of the way when taking the pic so light can get to the sensor.
The mirror "slapping" up results in a tiny vibration that's insignificant for most types of photography.
While tiny it can blur certain pics, such as in high-magnification macro work, especially when using a bellows between the lens and camera body for magnification ratios higher than 1:1.

BUT ...

You can eliminate this slap up vibration by putting your DSLR in Live View mode when you compose the pic.
Live View means the mirror lifts up, the light hits the sensor, and the image is viewed on the LCD on the back of the camera instead of in the optical viewfinder.
Since the mirror is already up it doesn't have to "slap" up when you take the pic.

If you prefer to compose using the optical viewfinder better DSLRs also have a mirror-lock up feature - which is also used when reaching in to clean the sensor.

Last edited by Tico; 08-01-2018 at 01:47 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-01-2018, 02:44 PM
harpspitfire harpspitfire is offline
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mirror slap really isnt a factor for me, i cant see what the image is anyway, so i have to focus on bright star, i have remote timer i can use for the shutter, the images are usually 15-300 seconds long depending on what it is, about 20 or so is good along with some dark frames for stacking, i did have software for liveview with on the fly stacking, but thats if i want to drag out a laptop, i sort of got away from it as i got into more guitar playing, i was using it last week for mars, but not much luck, the dust storms seems to engulf the whole planet and block out detail
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  #34  
Old 08-01-2018, 03:02 PM
HHP HHP is offline
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mirror slap really isnt a factor for me, i cant see what the image is anyway, so i have to focus on bright star, i have remote timer i can use for the shutter, the images are usually 15-300 seconds long depending on what it is, about 20 or so is good along with some dark frames for stacking, i did have software for liveview with on the fly stacking, but thats if i want to drag out a laptop, i sort of got away from it as i got into more guitar playing, i was using it last week for mars, but not much luck, the dust storms seems to engulf the whole planet and block out detail
When I attended Nikon School in the 70's, one of the students asked about getting photos with a huge Moon in an evening or morning landscape shot. The instructor, who was a staffer for National Geographic, went through an explanation of timing, lenses, exposure, etc. The student wouldn't give up, asking question after question on how to get that Moon photo.

The instructor finally told him if the Moon was not big enough, move closer by 50 feet and try again. The guy happily accepted that solution.
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  #35  
Old 08-01-2018, 04:32 PM
harpspitfire harpspitfire is offline
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the moon's nice to image alone and with landscapes-actually the moon is same distance from the sun as the earth- so typical 1/2 to full moon is no different then daylight photo here, so the camera setting would be near that- heres an image of one of my better ones
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File Type: jpg hi rez lunar.jpg (25.3 KB, 24 views)
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  #36  
Old 08-01-2018, 04:43 PM
Tico Tico is offline
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When I attended Nikon School in the 70's, one of the students asked about getting photos with a huge Moon in an evening or morning landscape shot. The instructor, who was a staffer for National Geographic, went through an explanation of timing, lenses, exposure, etc. The student wouldn't give up, asking question after question on how to get that Moon photo.

The instructor finally told him if the Moon was not big enough, move closer by 50 feet and try again. The guy happily accepted that solution.
.............. LOL!
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  #37  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:29 AM
robj144 robj144 is offline
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Good pics, but have ever shot raw and edited them in a photo program? You can get the pics to come out with many different looks. I never use in camera effects.
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  #38  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:37 AM
robj144 robj144 is offline
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Here's my moon pic from my older D300s I got rid of... this is during a Lunar Eclipse:







Here is with my D750:

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  #39  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:56 AM
Nyghthawk Nyghthawk is offline
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Very nice moon shots!
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  #40  
Old 08-02-2018, 12:20 PM
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If we're mooning here's one taken by my son whilst testing his Nikon P900.

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