Best battery powered PA available now

[tadol]

If I could figure out how to run my Bose T1 on a battery, connected to the S1 it would be about as perfect as I’d ever want -

[lkingston]

Originally Posted by varmonter

i have the EaA d68. works great for small intimate places . 80 watts so no big loud bars but restaurants it fine.

I love my D6-8. I t works really well on it's own for small clubs, and sending a nice mix to a PA or set of powered speakers. In particular, there is a full EQ for the balanced stereo line outs, so you can pretty much make any set of powered speakers sound their best.

There really is no comparison between the Elite Acoustics amps and the other battery powered options. The D6-8 mixer has a mixer that is on par with the Bose Tonematch series, and the sound quality is about on par with a good reference monitor. I prefer it to the AER amps, especially on vocals.

There really is nothing else like it. Not even close!

[Methos1979]

I just noticed that EAE is now offering their D6-58 with a wood cabinet AND an internal lithium battery! This is their 120 watt model which has three speakers. It's expensive and heavy at 30 pounds. But I'm a sucker for a wood cabinet! I'd still likely prefer the D6-8 Pro at only 18 pounds. 80 watts is likely more than enough for us but that model does not as yet come with the lithium battery. So I'm going to wait as I fully expect them to begin to offer that model with a battery at some point. But if we start gigging again here in the near future and find ourselves playing places we need that kind of power I can see myself grabbing the 120 watt model.

[Nama Ensou]

Meanwhile, I wish I hadn't bought my still brand new and unused JBL Eon One Compact. Thought I was going to be using it a lot last year, and now it still sits with no gigs to go to. Hopefully that changes soon though and I'm also really interested in the EAE gear and that there'll be reason to think of buying one soon.

[jontewright]

I’m not sure how much difference there is between the Elite Acoustics A4-8 and the D6-8 but this looks like a really good price for the A4-8.
Uk based seller too.

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/elit...RoC1FkQAvD_BwE

[Mandobart]

Originally Posted by tadol

If I could figure out how to run my Bose T1 on a battery, connected to the S1 it would be about as perfect as I’d ever want -

Use an inverter. This ain't rocket surgery....

[tadol]

So, get a large battery to store DC power, run it through some fancy electronics to make it look like 110vAC, in order to run it thru another inverter to convert it back to DC, to feed into the T1? Yeah - I’m hoping to eliminate a couple of those elements, and just using a small battery pack that feeds the DC directly - just need to figure out the wiring on the RJ45 connector and build a cable that’ll do it - If someone has that info, or knows who already makes one, that’d be very welcome. Otherwise, it just waits on the projects-to-do list -

[CASD57]

Originally Posted by tadol

So, get a large battery to store DC power, run it through some fancy electronics to make it look like 110vAC, in order to run it thru another inverter to convert it back to DC, to feed into the T1? Yeah - I’m hoping to eliminate a couple of those elements, and just using a small battery pack that feeds the DC directly - just need to figure out the wiring on the RJ45 connector and build a cable that’ll do it - If someone has that info, or knows who already makes one, that’d be very welcome. Otherwise, it just waits on the projects-to-do list -

They actually have a Marine Battery case that has Cigarette lighter sockets built in...Your invertor plugs into that..The inverter has A/C plugs in it..
So you only have 2 items Battery case(Holding the Battery) and a inverter
Sure it's a heavy battery but it lasts for a long time if you get a deep cycle marine battery..
I've used a Dewalt battery jumper box(it had A/C sockets and USB) and it worked great for my PA speaker, just plugged in a multi-plug strip and you've got enough plugs

[tadol]

I have a battery, with adapters, that can output 5v, 9v, 12v, 15v, 18v, or 24v - it also has leads that can clip onto a car battery and jump start your car if needed - not much bigger than a paperback book. I use it to power my Soulmate Acoustic, then plug that into my S1 - I can operate all that completely unplugged for a whole afternoon without a problem. I can also power most any other pedal, or device, that has a standard DC circular connector, or through its USB jack. But the T1 has a power brick that supplies the power through a special RJ45 connector - essentially an ethernet jack - which I cannot find any documentation on. Eventually, I will get out my meter and figure it all out, but as I tried to say, if someone already has built, or offers a battery cable that does it for a reasonable price, I’d be inclined to just buy it -

[Chriscom]

Originally Posted by tadol

But the T1 has a power brick that supplies the power through a special RJ45 connector - essentially an ethernet jack - which I cannot find any documentation on. Eventually, I will get out my meter and figure it all out, but as I tried to say, if someone already has built, or offers a battery cable that does it for a reasonable price, I’d be inclined to just buy it -

I may not be understanding your question, but are these the values you're looking for? This is just taken from the Sweetwater listing for the Tonematch power brick:


Tech Specs
Type: Bose Power Supply
Input Voltage Range: 100-240V AC, 50-60Hz
Output Voltage: ±18V DC
Output Amps: 1A
Compatibility: Bose ToneMatch devices

[tadol]

Good to know its 18v. But the connector is RJ45 - so it has 8 wires in the connector, some of which can carry other data when its plugged into certain Bose PA systems. So mostly what I need to do is get the special jack which is a kind of combo RJ45 with XLR style lock, apparently called an etherCon cable, then I need to figure out which lines carry power, which is pos and which is neg, then get an adaptor to plug into my power brick, and solder it all up - and hope I don’t let any of the magic smoke out -

Just explaining it, I’m closer to having it built than before I posted!

If anyone else is intrigued, maybe we could split an ethercon cable in half and each get a nice wired up end, and be half-way there!

[Mandobart]

Originally Posted by tadol

Good to know its 18v. But the connector is RJ45 - so it has 8 wires in the connector, some of which can carry other data when its plugged into certain Bose PA systems. So mostly what I need to do is get the special jack which is a kind of combo RJ45 with XLR style lock, apparently called an etherCon cable, then I need to figure out which lines carry power, which is pos and which is neg, then get an adaptor to plug into my power brick, and solder it all up - and hope I don’t let any of the magic smoke out -

Just explaining it, I’m closer to having it built than before I posted!

If anyone else is intrigued, maybe we could split an ethercon cable in half and each get a nice wired up end, and be half-way there!

Sounds like a plan! My first career was as a nuclear submarine electronics tech in the USN.

Why not get a short ethernet cable, cut off an end and spread out the pairs and strip about 1/4" off the end of each wire. Run your Bose off AC. Plug in the newly made CAT5e pigtail and with your multimeter see which two have DC power on them. Potential problems would be if more than two cables are powered, or if there are blocking diodes downstream.

I would not be surprised if they followed existing PoE (power over ethernet) protocol currently used for networked cameras, lights, access points, etc.

Alternately, you could try contacting Bose tech support or a Bose user forum. Some mfrs have sent me schematics in the past....

[DavidE]

After months of wrangling with Bose, sendng my 2 units back for hardware fixes for the battery drain issue, getting no improvement, receiving new replacements that drained faster than my old ones I ended up sending them back to Bose and got a refund.

I have the JBL Compact Pro and it's good and has no battery issues. But I just cannot get it to sound nearly as good as my S1s.

So a week ago I came across a like new S1 at a great used price and bought it. Yeah, I missed that sound. A lot. If this one has battery drain issues I'll just live with it and make sure to charge it the day before a gig.

[Lost Sheep]

Tadol, Mandobart, Chriscom, (others),

This looks like it would provide a starting point very close to the finish line.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

[tadol]

Thanks for that link - it is pretty interesting, but if I am understanding it correctly, its not that there isn't a standard for POE, its that there are a bunch of standards, and there are still some who do things differently -

SO - I will have to try and get a ethernet cable coupler, and extend the cable from my T1 110v power supply to a set of stripped wires, and see if I can figure out which 2 (or 4) are carrying the + and - power, and confirm the 18v - then I just need to get a female jack for my power brick 18v output, and wire it to a spare ethernet cable, and see if I can power up the T1 - then, with that confirmed, I'll get the right EtherCon cable and adapt it so its a plug and play situation.

The goal would be 2 S1s, connected to the main outs on the T1, giving me 4 inputs on the T1 and an extra 1 channel on each S1, all battery powered - that should make a garden party or even a park event quite simple, and sound quite good -

A quick addendum - I found this on a Bose website - now I just have to figure out which wires -

“ A 24 gauge wire (the size typically used in ethernet cables) has about 2.5 Ohms of resistance per 100 feet. The T1 draws roughly 1/4 Amp on each of two supply wire pairs (+/-18V nominal). “