#1
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I messed up my neck joint - how to fix
I just realized I've built my neck joint (bolt-on) such that the top of the neck is flush with the top of the sides. That means the fingerboard cannot sit on top of the top without a gap between the fingerboard and neck.
My options at the moment are: - Plane down the sides and the top of the neck block/ tail block the required height. This is difficult as I already have the kerfed lining on and I'm breaking the individual pieces off trying to plane. My neck block and tail block design also present some end grain to that surface, so planing that will be difficult. - Slot the bolt holes so they can move up the thickness of the top. This would require a complicated router jig at best or a milling machine and many cases of beer to the owner. - Somehow cut/carve off the neck block and make a new one, shifted up the required height. This one will hurt because I'm very happy with the block I've made, however it seems like the cleanest option. - Cut a chunk out of the fingerboard to ride flush over the top : this seems like a hack and I would assume it will look ugly (especially with a bound fingerboard) Any input on these (or other) options? I feel really dumb right now. Not the first or last time on this project, however. |
#2
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I would plug and redrill the bolt holes, rather than slotting them. If you want, glue a thin hardwood strip on the face of the neck block to cover the plugged holes.
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#3
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Of course! That makes sense
I've transferred the bolt holes to a jig, and plugged. Tomorrow when they're dry I'll shim the jig the thickness of the top and redrill. This also means the truss rod sits below flush with the top of the neck, which I was curious about before Thank you! |
#4
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And we're back in the game! Mock up went well.
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#5
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Looks good.
Unless you are planning to finish the surface of the fingerboard, I think you'll find that maple is not a good choice for a fingerboard: it's gets dirty and shows it. |
#6
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Quote:
I don't really want to put a coat of varnish on it, bit do you think that's the best option? |
#7
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In my opinion, I'd recommend a darker wood for a fingerboard, of which there are many to choose. A light-coloured fingerboard can have a surface finish - lacquer, varnish, etc. - applied, but it isn't an option I'd choose: it's a "make-maintenance" project - similar to a "make-work" project.
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#8
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Since when has mineral oil ever been a "finish" ?
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#9
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It's the perfect thing to use for slicing vegetables on the fretboard.
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#10
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Funny, I originally wrote both of those things and edited my post to side-step the issue of mineral oil altogether.
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#11
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A suggestion for fingerboard finish.
If you want to use maple as a fingerboard it will need some protection. Unsealed would will pick up oils and dirt from the players fingers which will make for a grubby looking board in a matter of weeks. Other students on my course have used Rubio Monocoat as a finish for both the body and fingerboard. It’s very thin - you usually only one coat is used - and leaves a matt finish. Most importantly it seems very hard wearing and completely seals the wood.
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#12
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I will look into Rubio, thank you all for the advice. I did my research early on and decided I wanted to go maple (if only for price). Next build will definitely be something else
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