#31
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The classic mistake is to adjust the truss rod to compensate for seasonal variation in the action. That is almost always due to movement of the top, rather than an actual change in relief. As Bruce suggests, the correct remedy for this is to adjust the saddle height.
I have literally owned guitars for decades without touching the truss rod, once they have undergone an initial setup. |
#32
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Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#33
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I don't get much movement, but If I do, I'll swap a saddle before I go changing relief to change the action. Anything more than a saddle swap and a slight change in relief goes to my tech. |
#34
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#35
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Any chance you could convert them to thousandths of an inch, for easier visualization? |
#36
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#37
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Divide 1.8 by 32 = 0.056" Similarly, 2.6/32 = 0.081" |
#38
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>> On a low action set up (1.8/32 x 2.6/32 at the 13th barred at the first) ...
Bruce, What do those two numbers mean? Are they the range for what you consider low action, or are they the action at the 1st and 6th strings? Also, why the unconventional action measurement, i.e. barring at the 1st fret and measuring at the 13th?
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Martin D-18 (1964) Martin D-28 (1971) Ibanez 2470NT (1977) Gibson ES-175 (1981) Gibson ES-165 (1992) Yamaha AEX-1500 (1996) D'Angelico EXL-1DP (2005) Peerless New York (2007) Epiphone Elitist Byrdland (2008) |
#39
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It would be simpler if we all just used Roman numerals ... |
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I see I was (once again) making assumptions, this being the build and repair subsection.
One barrs at the first fret and measures at the the 13th fret to eliminate the possibility (probability) of an inaccurately adjusted nut. Martin “standard” 12th fret measurements are generally quoted as 2/32” on the e and 3/32” on the E (where e is skinny string and E is fat string). Because I choose to pursue personal mastery though feel to the degree realistically possible, I judge relief by eye. I can easily approximate 5ths or 1/4s by eye looking at 32nds on a ruler, so I think in terms like 1 and 4/5ths thirty seconds, more easily written as 1.8/32”, which is the clearance Eric Schoenberg seems to favor on his high e string with a perfectly adjusted nut and negligible (but present) relief. Eric’s playing style is not particularly dynamic compared to my own, being IMO between 3 and 6 on a scale of ten. I tend to play between 2 and 11, so historically I run a higher action than he does, which I describe as 2.2/32 x 3.2/32. As I mature and get better control of my exuberance, playing from 2 to 10 perhaps , I find I am increasing happy with just the slightest hair (lay terminology) under Martin standard, though nowhere near as low as Eric. If you are following this (all quite serious) then you can start to realize how subtle a really good playing set up is, and why a person blinding twisting on the truss rod can be so frustrating to some of the more in tune techs. |
#41
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I think we can all see that. We are dealing with tiny changes. But I don't think anyone contributing to this thread is likely to be 'blindly twisting on the trust rod', are they? Rather, we would be thinking of small reversible fractions of a turn, changing the relief by one or two thousandths of an inch at a time, trying to get closer to that optimum value - which may, as a helpful bonus, lead to a drop in the action that sparked off the idea in the first place.
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#42
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Unless of course one has already used the correct tools to put the plane of the base of the nut slot in the same plane as the plane of the first two frets (with the guitar adjusted to zero relief) in which case one can dispense with the capo on the first fret and go straight to dealing with the 12th fret.
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#43
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Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#44
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