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side bending?????
okay so a professional side bending setup would run me around 300.00 so i was wondering if i used the standard bending pipe i could use this bending pattern to bend and heat the wood against? here is the pattern: http://www.bluescreekguitars.com/sho...roducts_id=208
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#2
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Check out this thread over at the Kit Building Forum:
http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/board...php?f=4&t=2856 About halfway down in the discussion there's this link for a DIY Low Cost Bending Machine that costs $23 or so make, including the bending form: http://www.lint.org/TechNotes/lowcostbender.html
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#3
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If you are unable to make a bender, you likely will be unable to make a guitar unless from a kit with many of the steps already completed, such as having bent sides. |
#4
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there are a bunch of ways to bend "on the cheap"
if you wet and warm the wood then you can force it into a mould with clamps (depending on the wood.....) I used a steam wallpaper stripper to good effect with walnut and oak sides but maple was too brittle. soaking the sides in a trough of just boiled water from a saucepan for 10 mins should be just as good. another cheap alternative was a hot air blow gun into a blocked pipe. worked great till the gun died...... I have seen pics of a guy who used a caterer's blow torch to heat a small saucepan held by the handle in a vice....... When I eventually build my "man cave" the chimney from the wood burning stove will be supported by wall brackets so that I'll be able to use it!!
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#5
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One way I've been using for 30 years, is simply a section of hardware-store copper pipe attached with strapping to a piece of wood. A propane torch is put in one end and the copper pipe is "sealed" on the other end with a screw-on lid from a jar of jam. An oven mitt under the pipe keeps the wood from burning. Pretty Mickey Mouse, but under $10 or so.
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#6
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#7
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I built a mold with the clamps (like a fox bender) but instead of all the heat blankets and such, I installed the guts from an old gas space heater underneath it and lined it with light gauge stainless. I "bake" it at about 250 after I boil my wood for several hours.
Works like a charm!
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Keep on Rockin' in the Free World...... |
#8
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#9
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A bbq charcoal starter in a muffler pipe with a dimmer switch, a bit more controllable then the propane.
Laminating sides thinned to .06 or so is a good option as well, they can be squished in a mold or a basic vacuum bag set up. What ever method you decide upon, the investment in the tooling is relatively small and long lived. My thinking was to invest in the blanket and slats, and make an Everett style mold, which is like a Fox pattern without the frame, uses basic nuts and bolts. There is a pic of this on the link posted by Kwak. I will upgrade to Fox bender sometime. |
#10
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for me i use a heating blanket and a fox style machine and molds that i built from scratch. i use a bending iron for kerfing and binding. imo part of lutherie is making your own tools.
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#11
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Just for the record, a propane torch is very easy to control. What I like about the torch is that takes almost no time to heat the pipe. (I use it in addition to the Fox bender that I've used for the past 30 years.) |
#12
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If you boiled mahogany sides for "several hours" you would end up with mahogany soup ... |
#13
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I'm curious about the boiling or saturation of wood in any respect. The wood we use for backs and sides is usually dried pretty well for us. To introduce that much water seems like it's just asking for problems. Maybe it does work. I'm just raising the point out of curiosity.
Thanks, Bob |
#14
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(Or, I might be dead wrong, I've not actually done any bending yet... Soon though!) A lot of what I've seen says rosewood and such can be soaked, maybe for half an hour or so, but some of the more highly figured woods only need spraying or misting with water? Can anyone more experienced weigh in on this? |
#15
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In practice, just adding water won't plasticize the wood sufficiently; adding heat, without the water does, but, burning and scorching are reduced with the use of water/steam. One potential result from too much water is that the sides will "potato chip", not remain flat/ripple across their width, requiring more work. Quote:
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