Yamaha Setup? (Beginner looking to learn instead of pay)

[Alex_B]

Hey, everyone.

I'm a (very) new guitar player and proud owner of a new Yamaha FG-800. A few experienced guitar playing friends and neighbors who have checked out my guitar have said it's got great tone but the action is quite high. I bought a string action gauge earlier today, and this is what I see:

First Fret
Low-E: 0.75mm (around 0.03 or 2/64 inches)
High-E: Nearly same as low G, maybe a hair lower (beyond the precision of my gauge)

12th Fret
Low-E: 3.175 mm (around 0.125 or 8/64 inches)
High-E: 2.03 mm (0.08 or 5/64 inches)

I don't have a way to measure the neck relief, but to my eye its very nearly straight with a barely perceptible upward curve/relief.

Based on what I'm reading, my action is quite high. Also, the relationship between the low-E and high-E isn't quite right (i.e. I probable can't just sand a uniform amount off the bottom of the saddle and call it good).

I'd like to take a stab at correcting this myself. I'm a pretty handy guy, and I figure the worst that can happen is I screw up the stock plastic nut or saddle and end up needing new ones (Hey! upgrade time?).

In other words, I'd rather try, fail, and learn (so long as only the nut or saddle get damaged) than pay someone to do this for me right off the bat.

Does anyone out there have any thoughts on how YOU would address this if you were going to tackle it yourself?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Alex

[charles Tauber]

This is one approach: https://www.charlestauber.com/luthie...May%202015.pdf

[Mirosh]

I've had my FG800 for a little over a year and have been learning and doing on it and some other guitars for just a little longer. Charles Tauber's guide is one of many I've come across and in my opinion is the best one.

If you can stand the wait, order another saddle or two. Save your original intact. It's a valuable starting point. Do your sanding/experimenting on a new one. You have measurements, so you can calculate how much to take off the new one, and where. Read and reread and notate Tauber while you wait.

My FG800 is still a favorite, although I now have several other costlier guitars. As well as a new saddle (bone or tusq - I forget) and a few changes of strings, I put on some Grover tuners. Have also done some careful nut filing. It's a good enough basic guitar that if you get it set up to your liking, it's worth further refinement and upgrades if you want them.

[Alex_B]

Thanks, Charles and Mirosh. I appreciate the tips.

I think you’ve got the right idea re: ordering the new saddle to learn with while keeping the original intact as a reference (and/or fallback plan if I mess up the new one and want to get back to playing).

Time to do some reading...

[phavriluk]

A set of feeler gauges costs less than a burger. The feeler gauges and a capo and relief can be measured. Easy to do, and it tells what, if anything, should be done with the truss rod.

[Talldad]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

This is one approach: https://www.charlestauber.com/luthie...May%202015.pdf

That’s a wonderfully comprehensive guide Charles, thank you. Always nice to get another view on things.

[Alex_B]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

A set of feeler gauges costs less than a burger. The feeler gauges and a capo and relief can be measured. Easy to do, and it tells what, if anything, should be done with the truss rod.

Good thinking. I just ordered one for about $9, arriving tomorrow. Ordering the Tusq nut and saddle next.

I think a friend of mine has a set of nut files I can borrow if needed.

[cliff_the_stiff]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

This is one approach: https://www.charlestauber.com/luthie...May%202015.pdf

Follow the advice from Charles Tauber. His posts are excellent guides.

[Alex_B]

Alright! I went ahead and sanded bottom of the (original) plastic saddle. I removed a wedge-shaped bit of material - about 6/64 from the low-E side and about 2/64 from the high-E side.

It was surprisingly easy, and I'm very pleased with the results. I started by marking the angled line with a fine-tipped pencil, then did some free hand sanding to remove the bulk of the material, then went to a more controlled approach using a lot less pressure and pushing the saddle against a piece of oak that had a nice right angle cut (the "fence").

Before doing that, I added a little bit more relief to the neck. Now I've got about 0.010" of neck relief, 5/64" action at the Low-E, and 4/64" at the high-E.

I think it's still higher than it could be (particularly at the nut) but this was a HUGE improvement. Fretting is much easier, and I'm noticing that I'm not accidentally muting strings with my fret hand quite as much since I don't have to push down as far or as hard.

Thanks again for the tips!

[Mirosh]

Congrats. Kind of fun, isn't it?

One suggestion is to have some spare strings on hand, especially the high E, in case one breaks when you're loosening and tightening them. I hold them snug with a capo so they don't unwind too much at the tuning machines. That seems to reduce breakage when I am fussing with a saddle.

[Alex_B]

Yes, it was fun. I really enjoy tinkering and working with tools.

Stumbled on the capo tip somewhere else - definitely helpful! I loosened and tightened the strings quite a few times while adjusting the truss rod, then a few more while working on the saddle. It was nice being able to keep a little tension on the tuning pegs so they didn’t unravel.

I’ve got a pack of “Light” Elixer strings on hand. Plan to install those once my Tusq nut and saddle show up in the mail, assuming none of my original strings break before then.

[Alex_B]

I went ahead and installed the Tusq nut and saddle myself - just took it slow and steady with the sanding until the both fit snuggly.

It was fun to do, and I’m really happy with how it sounds.

I’m not noticing any issues with the strings sitting deep in the nut slots, but I’ll probable sand a little off the top next time I change the strings. I borrowed my neighbors StewMac nut files and used a stack of feeler gauges laid flat on the fretboard as a “stopper” to cut each slot to the correct depth. Not too difficult!

For anyone who might come across this later, I used the PQ-1720-00 nut and the PQ-9276-CO saddle. Both required sanding, but they were the closest match I saw that I was sure wouldn’t be too small in one dimension or another.