#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Got some guitars, some keyboards, some melodicas, some skills and a little talent. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Doing a quick read-through of some of it, I see there are a few things that need to be updated/corrected. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Doerr Trinity 12 Fret 00 (Lutz/Maple) Edwinson Zephyr 13 Fret 00 (Adi/Coco) Froggy Bottom H-12 (Adi/EIR) Kostal 12 Fret OMC (German Spruce/Koa) Rainsong APSE 12 Fret (Carbon Fiber) Taylor 812ce-N 12 fret (Sitka/EIR Nylon) |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
The string action does seem to be on the high side, more than what a truss rod adjustment can correct. If you were to use your straight edge (with the truss rod nut fully loose, or in a neutral tension position), and it resting on the fretboard, slide it up to the bridge. Then, does the straight edge tip bump into and stop on the front edge of the bridge, or does it ride up and over the top of the bridge, without the straight edge lifting off the top of the fretboard?
Martin has specs on how much of a gap should exist between the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the bridge (I don't have these handy, sorry) using this measuring technique. By comparing your measurements to the Martin spec, this will give you a good, although rough, idea about how much the neck angle needs to adjusted, if at all.
__________________
Leonard 1918 Gibson L-1 1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board) 1930's Kalamazoo KG-32 1930's Gretsch F-50 1934 Gibson L-7 1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape) 1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back) 1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back) 1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head) 1948 Gibson L-50 1949 Epiphone Blackstone "a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool" |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
I adjust the relief on my guitars frequently, I keep my neck very straight so it doesn't take much for a buzz to appear. It would be great for you to learn how to do this yourself. Do you have the proper wrench?
|
#21
|
|||
|
|||
So I checked relief and on low E I was able to tap on 7th fret and fit a thick piece of paper under it, while on plain E I didn't feel a tap but paper didn't appear to lift the string, so I guess is ok. I checked action with a "Fritz" ruler and for low E shows good and high E just a bit over the line, but I think the ruler is fake as it has a typo. Baroque ruler shows around 0.13 or 2.75mm for low E and around 2.2mm for plain E, so not dramatically high but some chords around fret 7 are painful. I don't think this is worth bringing in to luthier for setup yet, but I am not sure if a truss rod adjustment would even be beneficial?
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
"I am not sure if a truss rod adjustment would even be beneficial?"
No. The relief is pretty good now. To lower the action, you need to lower the saddle a bit - maybe 0.7mm or so. But look under it. There may be shim about that thick, and you can remove it. Otherwise, sand the saddle. If it's the original saddle, some say it's wise to keep it unchanged and get a new saddle, and experiment on that one. Good luck! Last edited by Mirosh; 02-25-2021 at 05:29 PM. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, to all who are wondering..I did visit a local repair shop and turns out I was in good shape. Just a little relief adjustment is all I needed. I had plenty of room in the direction I needed to go. He tightened the truss rod a couple of very short turns and what a difference. He said the rod was in a loose position to start. He also stated I have a very good set up, plenty of room on my saddle should I ever need to lower. Since then I purchased a 5mm hex key and a string action guage. I even turned the rod a couple more tweaks, I got it right where I want it, a nice straight neck (but not totally straight) without a single buzz. Much easier playing. I was pleased with this shop, we spoke for about 2 hours going over everything, a $29 visit. I gained a ton of knowledge.
__________________
Next to the grave marked "Unknown" Martin 2018 OM-28 |