#16
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First I heard of precutting. I’ll stick to pulling them tight, a single wrap, dog chewed plastic wind it up and give it a trim. Tune to pitch.
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#17
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wouldn't consider doing that. too easy to just trim after I get my 3-wrap wind done. measuring for a pre-cut seems to be a discipline not worth the time it would take to master. I like giving myself the benefit of the doubt.
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#18
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I've never pre-cut strings, hadn't seen the need for it. I've sure to those who do, there's a need for it.
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{ o}===::: Craig ________________________ 2003 Gibson J45 2021 Furch Yellow Gc-CR MC FOR SALE 2023 Hatcher Greta |
#19
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I used to wind the entire string on the post - I didn't know any better - I've tried every method out there and come up with the simplest, easiest re-string routine that works perfectly for me.
No pre-cutting and no over/under wraps on the string posts. Works for all types of strings .. especially round-core. They go on neatly and come off easily .. and no, they don't slip.
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Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#20
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I started doing it a year or two ago after watching the Taylor video.
Yes, seems easier. I don't have all that extra string beyond the posts trying to stick me or scratch the headstock. I did it for almost 60 years your way, I no longer do.
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Keith Martin 000-42 Marquis Taylor Classical Alvarez 12 String Gibson ES345s Fender P-Bass Gibson tenor banjo |
#21
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You mean cutting the strings before putting them on? People do that?
There's always something new to learn on AGF! |
#22
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Nine of my guitars have slotted headstocks including two 12 strings and a National with very narrow slots.
Pre-cutting simply makes matters easier and causes less damage to headstocks. For my guitars with solid headstocks it is similarly more effrective. I have worked out the ideal cutting length past the capstan for both type of headstocks which gives me one wrap above and three wraps below. That's my style, it works well. I've just been persuaded to sample round core strings (again) I'll see.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#23
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I don't pre-cut anything. I wrap on the post until I have the desired Number of wraps, then thread through the hole and pull tight. Then I bend the string up (no string swinging around). Then tune. Works for me. Short time to change strings.
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#24
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This is how I've always done it too (on guitar, mandolin and uke - fiddle is something different).
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#25
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Quote:
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#26
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Quote:
I cut prior to winding. Is that considered pre-cutting? I think so. On vertical post tuners I use the Taylor method and cut the string a bit past the string post. Why do I cut it before winding? It gets the excess length out of the way and there's no chance of scratching the finish from the uncontrolled loose end. On horizontal string post slot heads I add the width of 3 or 4 fingers, make a right angle bend, and cut the string 1/2" past the bend. The bend also locks the wraps on round core strings, so loosening of the winding tension isn't an issue. I insert the bent end, apply finger pressure over the string and wind it. Why do I cut it before winding? It gets the excess length out of the way and there's no chance of scratching the finish from the uncontrolled loose end. In either of these scenarios its just as easy to cut prior to winding as it is to cut afterwards, and often it's easier because the string is in a better position for cutting. Seems like a win-win to me. When did I start doing it? I've been playing for 60 years and it was sometime between, but I've been doing it long enough that I don't remember. Probably after doing the "Taylor" method, so 20 years ago? (The "Taylor method" does pre-date Taylor recommending it...) Last edited by Rudy4; 03-30-2023 at 07:24 PM. |
#27
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After threading a string through the post most everyone estimates what 3-4 winds are going to be and then the pulls back the string through the post to start to wind the string. Instead of doing that and risking scratching the headstock, poking a finger or an eye, I just estimate like everyone else, but I cut the string before it is wound instead of after. I put my strings on from outside in so the string length estimate for the 6 and 1st string would be the tuning posts of the 5th and 2nd string. For the 5th and 2nd string the length is the 4th and 3rd string posts. For the 4th and 3rd string it's about the top of the headstock. I used to not pre-cut for my first 50 or so years of playing so it isn't a critical thing, but it's convenient for me now to pre-cut.
After the strings are on I will tune and that will be the last time I do a "critical inspection" of the string winds and string posts. I'm more concerned with playing than looking.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#28
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I’ve never pre-cut them and it seems like a nuisance to pre-cut. I just put a 90° bend in them at about the next capstan past the one that I’m actually going to install on then one loop over the top and the next one under then crank it up to near tune and cut off the excess part of the string. I can change strings pretty quickly and I don’t mind doing it.
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#29
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I have been using the Taylor way ever since I saw that video
and I began to pre-cut some years ago since I never saw a string to slip. Pre-cutting appears to me more secure while winding.
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Needed some nylons, a wide range of acoustics and some weirdos to be happy... |
#30
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Pre-cutting Strings....Why?
Or, looking at it another way…why not?
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) |