#16
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I put a sharp bend where the string enters the post and a sharp bend going in the opposite direction where it exits the post. Once you do that you can pick the guitar up by the string before you even wind it. I can't stand it when people try to tie knots or whatever in the strings. I've had guitars come strung that way and it's beyond aggrivating trying to take them off. Can't imagine having to deal with that should you break a string at a gig.
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#17
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All that bending, cutting to length and doubling back (Taylor and Martin), is a waste of time, and pointless. The way I have always done it is so quick, simple and stable that it takes less time to put on a string than it does to type this.
Do the bridge bit, bring the string up to the tuner keeping it taut (to minimise wraps), two wraps around the post BEFORE feeding the free end through the hole ABOVE the wraps, pull free end tight to lock, tune to pitch, stretch, repeat until there's no slack left, snip off excess, job done. Try it.
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#18
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I use the Martin method on all my Steel string guitars except the J45 that likes the over under method, she always has had a mind of her own lol
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#19
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......because it's not necessary.........
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#20
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I have always used the one wrap over, the rest under, method. It has always worked perfectly with no slipping. I don't even know what the "Taylor method" is - I was doing it this way in high school, long before there was a Taylor Guitar Co. I tried the Martin method when I got my first Martin, because they had a little card in the case showing how to do it. It worked well, but I'm so used to doing it they way I do that I didn't bother doing it again.
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#21
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I do the Martin method on the G B and treble E- those are the strings that will be bent while played. I cheat and do 1 wrap without lock on the other three. I'm a working musician and find this to be a very easy & reliable method.
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#22
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Been using the Taylor method since I first tried it. Use it on paddle headstocks, slotted headstocks, and mandolins with no problems. One thing I do, and maybe everybody does, is to keep the string under tension as I wrap the post so the wraps are tight top to bottom.
I like it just because its fast and repeatable. Always have problems with too much or too little slack in other methods. |
#23
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+1 for the "Taylor method".
Simple, secure, play on. |
#24
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Whatever gives you the desired results. Most important for me is applying guitar-face during this operation. And a pretty good bit of it I might add. And you thought it was only for wrenching out those heart-ripping blues notes.
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#25
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I'd have a perma guitar face if I had a $40 pick coming my way.
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#26
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I do the Taylor method. I did try the Martin method but found it know better than the Taylor method.
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#27
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Only negative about buying a new Martin is that first string change. It's about impossible to remove factory strings? I still don't understand why Martin thinks that method is necessary but if you own the company then you can make those decisions I suppose? So much easier way to re-string and just as secure IMO...
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Jim Dogs Welcome......People Tolerated! Last edited by llew; 07-12-2017 at 06:15 AM. |
#28
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Quote:
The jury is still out on why this G string broke, could have been due to the crimp, maybe, but I fixed it.
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"Militantly left-handed." Lefty Acoustics Martin 00-15M Taylor 320e Baritone Cheap Righty Classical (played upside down ala Elizabeth Cotten) Last edited by SunnyDee; 07-12-2017 at 05:49 AM. |
#29
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I don't like the Martin method because it is simply unnecessary, overly-fussy, and creates the possibility of a less-regular tuning action since it creates an un-round winding surface at the peg. I don't understand why people experience problems with string slippage using any version of the "few winds above, few winds below" basic approach. I hate restringing and am sometimes so eager to complete the task that I only do a few winds. But I always make sure the bend is clean where the string goes through the post, and I wind with tension on the string, and I stretch correctly (jerky stretching ruins strings) and I never, ever, never ever experience slippage. The Martin method works; welding the string to the post would work, too. Why bother?
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#30
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I'm fine with the Martin lock. Method I first learned, easy enough to get right.
Quick around under and back holds the string while I relocate the cutter/winder to crank it up. Works with round core too. As for restringing, luckily I am never in a big hurry, and don't mind the little bit of effort to unlock - just hate getting poked by the ends of the E & B strings.
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A few Martins, a Taylor, a Gibson, an Epi, and a couple nice electrics. |