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  #16  
Old 07-12-2017, 01:12 AM
Chainbreaker Chainbreaker is offline
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I put a sharp bend where the string enters the post and a sharp bend going in the opposite direction where it exits the post. Once you do that you can pick the guitar up by the string before you even wind it. I can't stand it when people try to tie knots or whatever in the strings. I've had guitars come strung that way and it's beyond aggrivating trying to take them off. Can't imagine having to deal with that should you break a string at a gig.
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  #17  
Old 07-12-2017, 03:29 AM
AndrewG AndrewG is offline
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All that bending, cutting to length and doubling back (Taylor and Martin), is a waste of time, and pointless. The way I have always done it is so quick, simple and stable that it takes less time to put on a string than it does to type this.
Do the bridge bit, bring the string up to the tuner keeping it taut (to minimise wraps), two wraps around the post BEFORE feeding the free end through the hole ABOVE the wraps, pull free end tight to lock, tune to pitch, stretch, repeat until there's no slack left, snip off excess, job done. Try it.
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  #18  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:34 AM
51 Relic 51 Relic is offline
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I use the Martin method on all my Steel string guitars except the J45 that likes the over under method, she always has had a mind of her own lol
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  #19  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:53 AM
lowrider lowrider is offline
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......because it's not necessary.........
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:53 AM
ghostnote ghostnote is offline
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I have always used the one wrap over, the rest under, method. It has always worked perfectly with no slipping. I don't even know what the "Taylor method" is - I was doing it this way in high school, long before there was a Taylor Guitar Co. I tried the Martin method when I got my first Martin, because they had a little card in the case showing how to do it. It worked well, but I'm so used to doing it they way I do that I didn't bother doing it again.
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  #21  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:57 AM
MaurysMusic MaurysMusic is offline
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I do the Martin method on the G B and treble E- those are the strings that will be bent while played. I cheat and do 1 wrap without lock on the other three. I'm a working musician and find this to be a very easy & reliable method.
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:07 AM
HHP HHP is offline
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Been using the Taylor method since I first tried it. Use it on paddle headstocks, slotted headstocks, and mandolins with no problems. One thing I do, and maybe everybody does, is to keep the string under tension as I wrap the post so the wraps are tight top to bottom.

I like it just because its fast and repeatable. Always have problems with too much or too little slack in other methods.
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:09 AM
billyfamilyvide billyfamilyvide is offline
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+1 for the "Taylor method".

Simple, secure, play on.
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  #24  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:17 AM
crikey crikey is offline
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Whatever gives you the desired results. Most important for me is applying guitar-face during this operation. And a pretty good bit of it I might add. And you thought it was only for wrenching out those heart-ripping blues notes.
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:23 AM
billyfamilyvide billyfamilyvide is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crikey View Post
Whatever gives you the desired results. Most important for me is applying guitar-face during this operation. And a pretty good bit of it I might add. And you thought it was only for wrenching out those heart-ripping blues notes.
I'd have a perma guitar face if I had a $40 pick coming my way.
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:24 AM
dcmey dcmey is offline
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I do the Taylor method. I did try the Martin method but found it know better than the Taylor method.
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:33 AM
llew llew is offline
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Only negative about buying a new Martin is that first string change. It's about impossible to remove factory strings? I still don't understand why Martin thinks that method is necessary but if you own the company then you can make those decisions I suppose? So much easier way to re-string and just as secure IMO...
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Last edited by llew; 07-12-2017 at 06:15 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:41 AM
SunnyDee SunnyDee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChalkLitIScream View Post
This shouldn't necessarily be true. You could get more winds by leaving more slack in the strings. You could use the basic wrap method using less wraps and also end up with a low break angle too.

I used to use the martin way, but now use the basic wrapping method.
The only issue I had was that the string kinking made it more prone to break. That and the fact that it was much harder to put the strings back on(not take them off imo). I'm always adjusting something or cleaning the guitar so the strings so come off.
I have been using the Martin way, too, and like it fine. I suspect it might be a bit easier to do the Taylor method if you have an electric winder, the Martin is a bit easier with handwinding, imo. I did break an E string at the post putting the crimp in too hard with Martin. That's the only downside I see, it does stress the string a bit locking it that way, but experience is a good teacher. It's not difficult to remove the strings. Maybe that's an issue if you are restringing hundreds of guitars, but I don't consider that a thing with just one. It is harder to put them back on, doable, but harder.

The jury is still out on why this G string broke, could have been due to the crimp, maybe, but I fixed it.
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Last edited by SunnyDee; 07-12-2017 at 05:49 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:51 AM
Mr Fingers Mr Fingers is offline
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I don't like the Martin method because it is simply unnecessary, overly-fussy, and creates the possibility of a less-regular tuning action since it creates an un-round winding surface at the peg. I don't understand why people experience problems with string slippage using any version of the "few winds above, few winds below" basic approach. I hate restringing and am sometimes so eager to complete the task that I only do a few winds. But I always make sure the bend is clean where the string goes through the post, and I wind with tension on the string, and I stretch correctly (jerky stretching ruins strings) and I never, ever, never ever experience slippage. The Martin method works; welding the string to the post would work, too. Why bother?
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  #30  
Old 07-12-2017, 06:18 AM
jmjohnson jmjohnson is offline
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I'm fine with the Martin lock. Method I first learned, easy enough to get right.
Quick around under and back holds the string while I relocate the cutter/winder to crank it up. Works with round core too.

As for restringing, luckily I am never in a big hurry, and don't mind the little bit of effort to unlock - just hate getting poked by the ends of the E & B strings.
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