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  #16  
Old 07-24-2020, 07:29 PM
OceanBreezy OceanBreezy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bard Rocks View Post
Try it with one of the plastic bindings, not with wood. The plastic will bend easier. I'll bet you can do a good job - and you have almost nothing to lose.
Thanks for the suggestion [emoji4] You are right [emoji6]

Last edited by OceanBreezy; 07-25-2020 at 02:06 AM.
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2020, 07:47 PM
darylcrisp darylcrisp is offline
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based on how deep cut the binding channel is, I would be tempted to either consider rounding all the edges with a mill file, or even sandpaper rolled over a small round bottle(plastic alchohol, ex), take your time and make a smooth even roll/bevel on both sides, then either put a clear coat over it or stain it to your desire.

if the binding channel is too deep to bevel out, I would consider filling it with some binding of choice-check stewmac or LMI for some instructional videos, and youtube will be full of doing binding work-imo cutting the channel correct and without chipout is the hard part, glue in the binding is the fun part. I would not use CA glue, use a water base glue that gives you time to fix and adjust the binding-watch a lot of instruction, you sound handy so you can do this. then when its finished, I personally would round off the edges so they are rolled and work for playing better.

I would not pay someone to do this, you can do this.

d
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2020, 10:07 PM
mtdmind mtdmind is offline
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You still got a good deal.
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  #19  
Old 07-25-2020, 02:01 AM
OceanBreezy OceanBreezy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darylcrisp View Post
based on how deep cut the binding channel is, I would be tempted to either consider rounding all the edges with a mill file, or even sandpaper rolled over a small round bottle(plastic alchohol, ex), take your time and make a smooth even roll/bevel on both sides, then either put a clear coat over it or stain it to your desire.

if the binding channel is too deep to bevel out, I would consider filling it with some binding of choice-check stewmac or LMI for some instructional videos, and youtube will be full of doing binding work-imo cutting the channel correct and without chipout is the hard part, glue in the binding is the fun part. I would not use CA glue, use a water base glue that gives you time to fix and adjust the binding-watch a lot of instruction, you sound handy so you can do this. then when its finished, I personally would round off the edges so they are rolled and work for playing better.

I would not pay someone to do this, you can do this.

d
You give me some good ideas. What sandpaper grit would be safe? I need to measure the channel. Maybe I can get away with not using purfling. If I decide to go thru with this, it would give me the opportunity to learn new things, clean the fret board, oil it, change the strings and maybe upgrade the pins to wood. I will familiarize myself with those online sources for materials you mentioned. Thanks for the all the info [emoji4]
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  #20  
Old 07-25-2020, 02:15 AM
Mike McLenison Mike McLenison is offline
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"Once I got home and got a real good look at it, I noticed something was off.... What I learned was that the binding was completely removed from the front and back."

This is a joke, right?
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  #21  
Old 07-25-2020, 03:25 AM
beljum beljum is offline
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I think you got a great deal! I would have jumped on that deal even at quite a bit more than you paid.
As others said, try the binding install yourself. There are tons of "how to" youtube vids and very knowledgeable folks here. I'm sure it will come out fine and acceptable. Actually a nice project during these times of isolation.
Please post your progress.

bel
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2020, 04:07 AM
darylcrisp darylcrisp is offline
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take a look at the black top Taylor 17. thats not binding, its the wood edge simply rounded off.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...uitar-blacktop

now if the binding channel is wide and or deep, you may need to fill it with wood or some plastic binding so you don't sand thru the joint of the top and side wood. research how to determine your binding size (stewmac and LMI should have a lot of info, and probably some how-to video.)

i'll try to find you something good for viewing saturday-may be late in the eve, or sunday, but i'll find something and send or post here. i know stewmac has info on bending binding.

you might consider posting a question in the builders section subform here on the AGF regarding replacing that binding, lots of excellent folks here who will offer their thoughts. somebody there will offer tips and ideas and guidance.

d

lots of video learning here:
https://www.stewmac.com/SiteSearch/?...&facet=&tabs=2

https://www.stewmac.com/SiteSearch/?...tabs=2&tpage=0


d
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  #23  
Old 07-25-2020, 04:12 AM
Proclaimer888 Proclaimer888 is offline
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So, you got a Martin for 50 bucks....if binding is the only issue......congratulations as you got a deal. I can blow through 50 bucks filling up my van. Some good suggestions mentioned already. Your Martin has character and an interesting history; so go strike a D chord and smile when you hear that wonderful sound. Good luck and keep us posted....and Play On!
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2020, 04:46 AM
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raysachs raysachs is offline
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It’s right in Martin’s catalog - if you get an otherwise functional Martin for $50, it comes without the binding. It’s like the old cutout records you’d find in used record stores, the music and vinyl was fine but there was a chunk cut out of the cover so nobody would try to sell em for full price.

Get a John Pearce armrest for it. You’ll increase your investment by hard, but it’ll never dig into your arm again and it’ll sound way better too...
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  #25  
Old 07-25-2020, 05:08 AM
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dnf777 dnf777 is offline
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Adding binding is one of the easier (not easy) steps in a build. If you use a synthetic, single layer, its not too difficult. Get good luthier tape ans a glue that will grab both plastic and wood. Do not rec gorilla glue though. Any of the popular luthier supply shops have glue they recommend for trim work.

Pics would be nice. Im having trouble believing you could overlook missing binding?? Like getting a car home to discover all quarterpanels are missing? I dont mean to be rude, but I bet
Im not alone scratching my head. Whatever the case, good luck! Sounds like a goidbplayer, and at $50 deservingbof rehab.
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  #26  
Old 07-25-2020, 05:31 AM
nickv6 nickv6 is online now
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Call me an old cynic but I'd have to see pictures to believe that
A) it's a real Martin and
B) you didn't notice the binding was missing....however excited you were.
Nick
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  #27  
Old 07-25-2020, 05:41 AM
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I'd look at it as a project guitar and as was suggested, use plastic binding...
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Last edited by RP; 07-25-2020 at 10:52 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-25-2020, 06:47 AM
packmule packmule is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickv6 View Post
Call me an old cynic but I'd have to see pictures to believe that
A) it's a real Martin and
B) you didn't notice the binding was missing....however excited you were.
Nick
Aye, but the OP did bring it to a Martin authorized repair person - I'd reckon that if it was a "fake" Martin then they would have alerted her to that on the spot.
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  #29  
Old 07-25-2020, 06:54 AM
zombywoof zombywoof is offline
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Missing binding is not quite the same as a hole punched though the corner of an LP in the cutout bin. And how you did not notice it from the get go is beyond me. That said, I would have paid $50 for that guitar with a detached neck. I have never replaced a full run of missing binding but only small sections which had shrunk and popped off. So I have no clue as to how easy a repair it is.
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  #30  
Old 07-25-2020, 06:57 AM
Coop47 Coop47 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by packmule View Post
Aye, but the OP did bring it to a Martin authorized repair person - I'd reckon that if it was a "fake" Martin then they would have alerted her to that on the spot.
There's a big gaping hole in your logic here.
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