Split Soundboard Seam (too dry)

[Dothraki]

So it appears I have a split from right under the bridge down to the base along the seam on a Adirondack spruce top dreadnaught. I knew I was risking not humidifying because I needed to know if it was too dry for my Martin (which, in the winter time apparently it is) plus I play the Adi top every day and night for long periods of time.

Anyway, it’s a very thin split, but I have never dealt with this before so have a few questions.

Is time of the essence? Do I need to rush out and find some hide glue and cleats immediately? Should I loosen the strings until it’s fixed?
Or can I just rehydrate it, get a hydration kit in there, start keeping it in the case, and continue to play it? Or will the seam split get worse?

I don’t care about cosmetics at all, as long as it plays and sounds it’s best.

[phavriluk]

First, take a deep breath. Second, find a repair tech qualified to make this repair. If someone has to ask about a repair, it's likely he shouldn't be attempting it.

This repair involves humidifying, gluing, and cleating. Leave it to an expert. This is an enormously visible joint that we do our very best to deny the existence of.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

First, take a deep breath. Second, find a repair tech qualified to make this repair. If someone has to ask about a repair, it's likely he shouldn't be attempting it.

This repair involves humidifying, gluing, and cleating. Leave it to an expert. This is an enormously visible joint that we do our very best to deny the existence of.

There is no way I’m paying someone to do this. I will do a better job than an “expert” with my guitar. My questions are more about the urgency of fixing it.

Also, which hide glue people like.

[redir]

I would just get some JB Weld and slather it in there and clamp it with Duct Tape over night.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by redir

I would just get some JB Weld and slather it in there and clamp it with Duct Tape over night.

That’s a good way to ruin your guitar.

[ProfChris]

For cosmetic reasons, fix it now. Once dust and dirt get on you'll have a dark line.

I'd look for a high clarity hide glue, but gram strength shouldn't be important. Lower gram strength gives you mire working time.

[phavriluk]

Dothraki, in the famous words of Foghorn Leghorn, 'that's a joke, son.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by ProfChris

For cosmetic reasons, fix it now. Once dust and dirt get on you'll have a dark line.

I'd look for a high clarity hide glue, but gram strength shouldn't be important. Lower gram strength gives you mire working time.

Great, thanks for the help!

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

Dothraki, in the famous words of Foghorn Leghorn, 'that's a joke, son.

I do appreciate a good Foghorn Leghorn reference!

[Fathand]

Some like hide glue, some like titebond. The big advantage of hide glue is ability to take it apart again later.
I doubt you want to take it apart again, Titebond original is easier if you haven't used hide glue before. Titebond has a longer working time. You can buy a small bottle for $5 anywhere. Cleans up with a damp cloth before dry, no messing with glue pots etc.

If you do use hide glue pay attention to strength and setup time. There are different grades. Stronger usually = less work time.
Lee Valley has a couple choices. So does Amazon.

Feel free to ask questions here, that's what the forum is for and we learn by doing.

[printer2]

Originally Posted by redir

I would just get some JB Weld and slather it in there and clamp it with Duct Tape over night.

Originally Posted by Dothraki

That’s a good way to ruin your guitar.

Maybe one of the experts took exception to someone saying the following,

Originally Posted by Dothraki

There is no way I’m paying someone to do this. I will do a better job than an “expert” with my guitar. My questions are more about the urgency of fixing it.

Also, which hide glue people like.

No knowledge of the urgency or glues, but could do a better job than people who do it day in and day out. How are you going to clamp the top together?

[Borderdon]

As an aside, there is “life after cracks”, I have a terrific dread with 3 dandy repaired top cracks.
It takes some doing to position the cleats where they need to be, and FWIW, I too would use titebond or similar, not hide glue.
Good luck.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by Fathand

Some like hide glue, some like titebond. The big advantage of hide glue is ability to take it apart again later.
I doubt you want to take it apart again, Titebond original is easier if you haven't used hide glue before. Titebond has a longer working time. You can buy a small bottle for $5 anywhere. Cleans up with a damp cloth before dry, no messing with glue pots etc.

If you do use hide glue pay attention to strength and setup time. There are different grades. Stronger usually = less work time.
Lee Valley has a couple choices. So does Amazon.

Feel free to ask questions here, that's what the forum is for and we learn by doing.

Perfect! Thanks for the great tips! I think I have some Titebond original in the basement. I see Titebond makes a “hide glue” as well but not sure what additives are in with it.

[Dothraki]

Originally Posted by Borderdon

As an aside, there is “life after cracks”, I have a terrific dread with 3 dandy repaired top cracks.
It takes some doing to position the cleats where they need to be, and FWIW, I too would use titebond or similar, not hide glue.
Good luck.

Great! Thanks for the help. I’m rehydrating it now, then surgery time in a few days.

[redir]

Get a fresh bottle of Titebond. If it's been in your basement for while it may be old and the stuff does deteriorate with age, and it's cheap. Many times with cracks like this the bridge needs to be removed. Pics would help.