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  #91  
Old 04-13-2012, 12:12 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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BTW, I thought the following image was cool enough to share. While chipping out the bad purfling some of the kerfing inside came out, creating a peephole through which I could admire my handiwork with the braces:



BTW, I'm also doing some reading up on bolt on necks. I took a little trip to the hardware store the other day:



I have to drill holes in where the tenon is to be and insert the barrel bolts which are threaded inside. The bolts will pass through the neck block and into the neck where the threaded bolts will be threaded into the barrel bolts. It's very similar to how IKEA has you assemble their furniture.
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  #92  
Old 04-13-2012, 12:30 PM
Gostwriter Gostwriter is offline
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That's really cool. It looks great; you'll be a pro in no time. How much experience did you have before attempting this? Just curious?
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  #93  
Old 04-14-2012, 09:49 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Originally Posted by Gostwriter View Post
That's really cool. It looks great; you'll be a pro in no time. How much experience did you have before attempting this? Just curious?
As far as woodworking goes my previous experience was with making a napkin holder and pig-shaped cutting board in shop class when I was 13 years old. That was 40 years ago.

More recently - about 18 years ago by my calendar - I was into the flashier form of CAD where you could use Photoshop to map textures and I "built" a Stratocaster, along with an entire virtual scene featuring a number of musical and stage related items. I was going for something photorealistic at the time but the lion's share of the work was building the guitar body - just like this one!
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  #94  
Old 04-15-2012, 06:12 AM
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Kitchen Guitars Kitchen Guitars is offline
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Hey, the Peach is done except finish on the neck and installing the pickguard!

The bolts you chose are good but will drive you nuts by the 80th fitting. My favorite are Allen bolts but with a thumb thread so you can do 80% of the tightening with your fingers.
Seeya soon Raccoon.
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  #95  
Old 04-17-2012, 06:17 AM
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I am looking at the cuts and neatness of this instrument. I admire that you are moving forward as time permits.

You and John are good to keep up on each other. The encouragement gives great results.

John, have you been posting on a thread? If so, can you send me the link so I can see yours, too?
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  #96  
Old 04-17-2012, 05:16 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Neat cuts? Mary, are you wearing your glasses? There are gobs of glue all over it at the moment from gluing in the purfling, I gauged the top pretty bad with a cabinet scraper and a section of purfling even came out!
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  #97  
Old 04-18-2012, 04:22 PM
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I AM wearing glasses. Don't forget that I know Neil and his neat nick ways. You are on the first guitar. It looks pretty nice for a firstie.
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  #98  
Old 04-18-2012, 08:18 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Okay, here are some pics. You be the judge. Personally, I think I need to put the scraper down and walk away.





I call this the "good" shot that doesn't show the mess ups:


Earlier I'd gotten frustrated when my cat decided that she wanted to play with the purfling as I attempted to glue it in and broke it into several small pieces, but then I decided to use it as a gluing implement instead:


I took a risk and used a cabinet scraper after the binding had only set for a couple of hours:


This was the real ugliness that happened though:
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  #99  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:04 PM
dekutree64 dekutree64 is offline
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Ouch! Is that scruffiness from the tape peeling up fibers, from following the binding until you were scraping across the grain, from the corner of the scraper digging into the top, from scraping the wood while it was still damp from glue moisture, or something else? Or is that just shallow scruffing and the missing section of purfling the only problem? Doesn't look like it will be too terribly troublesome to glue in another little segment.

But definitely let it dry overnight next time you're doing a full binding job. The tape really slows down the moisture escape rate, although you don't have it as thoroughly coated as I usually do (and still get gaps )

Last edited by dekutree64; 04-18-2012 at 09:13 PM.
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  #100  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:18 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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The top is cedar so it's very soft but those marks are from the edge of the scraper. I read you're supposed to bend it but now I know that that's not what I should do; now I keep it flatalong its length. BTW, that section of purfling is torn out from a dull block plane; I tried a different approach and that bit me too.

Anyway, the top is .125" thick because I read that cedar needs to be left thicker than spruce but I agree that there should be some room to work with, especially since my braces are thick. FWIW I've.been comparing the tap tone of the box against my Martin D-16GT and my Larrivee OM-03R. Both are much more resonant -even the smaller of the two.
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  #101  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:23 PM
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Chickens are out of the shop! You can bring her back to see were your at.
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  #102  
Old 04-18-2012, 10:20 PM
dekutree64 dekutree64 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
The top is cedar so it's very soft but those marks are from the edge of the scraper. I read you're supposed to bend it but now I know that that's not what I should do; now I keep it flatalong its length. BTW, that section of purfling is torn out from a dull block plane; I tried a different approach and that bit me too.

Anyway, the top is .125" thick because I read that cedar needs to be left thicker than spruce but I agree that there should be some room to work with, especially since my braces are thick. FWIW I've.been comparing the tap tone of the box against my Martin D-16GT and my Larrivee OM-03R. Both are much more resonant -even the smaller of the two.
Oope, I think you hit reply to my post and then I edited it out from under you... at first I was focused on the scruffs, but then couldn't tell if it was as deep as it looked, and noticed the purfling thing, and basically rewrote the whole thing.

Anyway, bending the scraper should be ok, as long as you don't push it into the wood too hard, or run too close to parallel with the grain where the hook starts peeling grains up. But keeping it flat is generally better for leveling binding, so you have the edge in contact with the top as a reference for flat. Just be sure to put a piece of masking tape on the corner so it doesn't scratch the top. I rounded over the corners of mine too, for even more safety. Sharp scraper corners are nothing but trouble.
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  #103  
Old 04-19-2012, 05:53 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitchen Guitars View Post
Chickens are out of the shop! You can bring her back to see were your at.
Were they tasty?

Sunday's the earliest I can do. My wife is going on a retreat. I'll be alone with the kiddos looking for things to do.

In the meantime I need to order more purfling for the back since I went through so much already. The channel's much wider though and rope or herringbone marketry would clash visually so I was thinking of getting some flamed mahogany binding to match the back strip and try and integrate it in with the maple and BWB purfling somehow. A single strip should do and I could resaw it to make two thinner ones. Most of it's going to get scraped flush anyway.

BTW, since I'm splicing in some purfling that tore out and am kicking around the idea of redoing the outer rosette purfling ring how hard do you think it would be to beef up that side purfling? I'm looking at a lot of scraping on the sides.
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  #104  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:41 AM
arie arie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
The top is cedar so it's very soft but those marks are from the edge of the scraper. I read you're supposed to bend it but now I know that that's not what I should do; now I keep it flatalong its length. BTW, that section of purfling is torn out from a dull block plane; I tried a different approach and that bit me too.
sorry for the nightmare. use a smaller scraper or apply one layer of painters tape to the edges of the scraper you are not using on the binding. leave a small section exposed to cut with. the tape will keep the edges of the scraper from gouging the top.

once you get this one done the others will be easier. good luck!
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  #105  
Old 04-23-2012, 05:30 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is offline
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Now it gets scary, as John says:



That's because now the math has to be right on.

Yeah, I know: I burned it on the bandsaw - but I left extra to cut away with a chisel.
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Last edited by Neil K Walk; 04-23-2012 at 05:42 PM.
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