Bridge clamp recommendation

[Theleman]

I am planning to reglue the detached bridge onto the body of the this Vintage Parlour Guitar V880N.

It is a Cedar Top body, and very fragile wood, and there is some problem with the tuner to fix too. So it is a repair project.

What clamps are best for gluing the bridge? Any recommendation? Simple and reliable which work well are best, and of course good priced one.

[LouieAtienza]

I use long-reach C clams from Harbor Freight, along with some hand-made cauls of wood lined with cork. You'll need a caul inside the guitar as well preferably with a thickness greater than the height of the braces.

[Truckjohn]

When you look at the links below - notice that you will probably end up with about $60 in clamps to do this job.... A luthier's fees may not seem like such a bad deal if you have to buy all the supplies.

Measure from the back edge of the soundhole to the middle of the bridge - on the outside wings and in the middle.... That will tell you what size clamps you need. Often - "normal" deep throat clamps only give 4" or so and you usually need about 6" depth.

Ibex, Shop Fox, and a couple others sell a deep C clamp like this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000D...OLL&ref=plSrch

These wooden cam clamps are also super handy. These come in 6" and 8" deep throat. Warning - the cheap ones often don't work well.. The good ones run about $20/each.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003F0...luthier+clamps

[fazool]

Originally Posted by LouieAtienza

I use long-reach C clams from Harbor Freight, along with some hand-made cauls of wood lined with cork. You'll need a caul inside the guitar as well preferably with a thickness greater than the height of the braces.

I was going to say the same thing - exact same method on my part

[Theleman]

Yes, great info and advice. Thank you.

I have a couple of old clamps for woodwork in the shed, so will try if they would do the job. But if not, then I will have to buy the clamps first before gluing the brides.

Thanks

[charles Tauber]

For pin bridges, I use a 3/16” bolt through the two outside bridge pin holes, along with appropriate cauls.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

For pin bridges, I use a 3/16” bolt through the two outside bridge pin holes, along with appropriate cauls.

I would imagine this would work too. Tighten them with nuts from the inside of the sound hole?

But if somehow glue gets into the bolt, then might be difficult taking them off? No?

[charles Tauber]

Rub wax on the threads. I’ve succefully done it that way for three decades.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Rub wax on the threads. I’ve succefully done it that way for three decades.

Great great idea. Thank you for sharing.
So you don't even need clamps when gluing pin holed bridges, right sized bolts and nuts will do - all my acoustics have pin holed bridge.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Theleman

Great great idea. Thank you for sharing.
So you don't even need clamps when gluing pin holed bridges, right sized bolts and nuts will do - all my acoustics have pin holed bridge.

No clamps necessary. The bolts also act to position the bridge while gluing.

You do need appropriate cauls, one the shape of the bridge plate for the interior of the guitar, and one the shape of the bridge, more or less, for the exterior. I use wing nuts on the inside and outside, with washers, on 3” long bolts. I don't use a screw driver to tighten the bolts - it can slip. Instead, I tighten by hand, then use pliers on the exterior wing nuts, while using my hand to prevent the corresponding interior wing nut from rotating.

Apply wax to the contacting surface of the interior caul: it doesn't improve the guitar's sound to glue the interior caul to the bridge plate.

Drill slightly oversize holes though the cauls in a position to match the outside holes in the bridge.

I use four small wooden wedges between the outer caul and the top of the wings of the bridge. Insert two wedges, parallel to the strings, from opposite directions, for each wing of the bridge. It applies pressure on the wings to ensure they are clamped down as well. Since the wedges attempt to bend the upper caul, I use wood - often a piece of 1x2 rather than plywood - particle board, and similar, isn't stiff enough to work.

If the upper caul is the same shape as the bridge, it is fairly easy to clean up the glue squeeze out. When the glue is dry - overnight - remove the bolts, cauls and wedges. Drill out each bridge pin hole with a 3/16" drill bit in a hand drill. Then ream each hole to suit your bridge pins.

[redir]

I use 3/16th inch bolts too with two cam clamps on the wings.

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

No clamps necessary. The bolts also act to position the bridge while gluing.

You do need appropriate cauls, one the shape of the bridge plate for the interior of the guitar, and one the shape of the bridge, more or less, for the exterior. I use wing nuts on the inside and outside, with washers, on 3” long bolts. I don't use a screw driver to tighten the bolts - it can slip. Instead, I tighten by hand, then use pliers on the exterior wing nuts, while using my hand to prevent the corresponding interior wing nut from rotating.

Apply wax to the contacting surface of the interior caul: it doesn't improve the guitar's sound to glue the interior caul to the bridge plate.

Drill slightly oversize holes though the cauls in a position to match the outside holes in the bridge.

I use four small wooden wedges between the outer caul and the top of the wings of the bridge. Insert two wedges, parallel to the strings, from opposite directions, for each wing of the bridge. It applies pressure on the wings to ensure they are clamped down as well. Since the wedges attempt to bend the upper caul, I use wood - often a piece of 1x2 rather than plywood - particle board, and similar, isn't stiff enough to work.

If the upper caul is the same shape as the bridge, it is fairly easy to clean up the glue squeeze out. When the glue is dry - overnight - remove the bolts, cauls and wedges. Drill out each bridge pin hole with a 3/16" drill bit in a hand drill. Then ream each hole to suit your bridge pins.

I remember reading a story from a luthier a while back who actually left the inside caul because it was inadvertently glued in, and was wondering why the guitar didn't sound or play right. Can't remember who it was, though...

[BradHall]

Clear packaging tape also works well to prevent glueing the caul to your top. I also cut a strip of 1/4" clear hose lengthwise and place it over the edge of the sound hole. Preventa damaging the fragile edge with clamps while inserting and removing them.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by BradHall

Clear packaging tape also works well to prevent glueing the caul to your top. I also cut a strip of 1/4" clear hose lengthwise and place it over the edge of the sound hole. Preventa damaging the fragile edge with clamps while inserting and removing them.

Both good suggestions.