#46
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
A customer had a Martin D-28 and asked if he could get the action lowered (it was about 4 1/2mm at the 12th fret. The tech was out sick so the sales person said he would adjust the truss rod, and that would bring it down. Well, being a quality instrument, I couldn't just watch this kid crank on the truss rod. I told him the the truss rod adjustment was for setting the proper neck relief, not for adjusting the action. I said action adjustment is a 3 part process. 1) check the neck for proper relief, then adjust the truss rod if necessary. 2) check string height at the nut, and adjust if necessary. 3) adjust saddle height as necessary. Well, the kid told the customer that I was wrong, and it was just a quick truss rod adjustment. I told the customer to do what he wanted, it's his expensive guitar. The customer said "no way" I'll come back when the tech is in, lol. The kid was upset with me.
__________________
Best regards, Mike _______________ Martin 00-28 Martin D-18 Cordoba C7 Gretsch Jim Dandy Last edited by Mike Sylvia; 05-26-2019 at 06:55 AM. |
#47
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I think not doing so ups there product return rate... With regard to neck relief, read Brian Kimsey's take on set up and neck relief. Very informative. |
#48
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
After I was done giving my 2 cents, I thought I should have just minded my own business.
__________________
Best regards, Mike _______________ Martin 00-28 Martin D-18 Cordoba C7 Gretsch Jim Dandy |
#49
|
|||
|
|||
I believe it makes a difference, but I can't be sure it actually does.
As already has been pointed out, string spacing and nut width sorta correlate, but that's not absolute. I flat-pick, but much of it is cross picking, and for me that means I approach things much like a finger picking guitarist does. I can play a 1 11/16 nut width guitar, some days with some chords in a way that doesn't bother me or add any extra duff notes for the listener. And some days I'm muffling notes on my Seagull with a 1.8 neck. This is largely due to my particular form of arthritis, which tends to effect the end-most, distal, joints on my fretting hand fingers. This tends to show up most often on my index finger when it's called to fret the B or high E strings while leaving the adjacent strings ringing clear, but it impacts everything a little or more than a little depending on the day. When the joint can't bend like it used to, I'm coming at the string's fretting point at an angle, not straight down, so any little bit extra string spacing width helps. For me, it's not that 1.75 nut width and I'm home free, it more at it gives me just a little edge in dealing with this issue. If I had my druthers, I'd probably go wider than 1.75, but that limits my options in term of available, affordable, guitars.
__________________
----------------------------------- Creator of The Parlando Project Guitars: 20th Century Seagull S6-12, S6 Folk, Seagull M6; '00 Guild JF30-12, '01 Martin 00-15, '16 Martin 000-17, '07 Parkwood PW510, Epiphone Biscuit resonator, Merlin Dulcimer, and various electric guitars, basses.... |
#50
|
|||
|
|||
Like a few others have mentioned, saddle spacing also makes a big difference. Also, I play both violin (tiny) and classical guitar (which is 2”) and the difference in string spacing at their respective nut, is staggering. I don’t really care for guitar nuts less than 1 13/16. When you play fingerstyle, the slightest differences can feel huge.
__________________
2010 Larrivee LSV-11e 2002 Jose Ramirez 4e 1998 Seagull S6+folk, Mi-Si LR Baggs acoustic trio 1986 Charvel Model 3A electric 2001 Fender Jazz standard bass 1935 A-00 Gibson mandolin 1815 JG Hamm violin Kelii soprano ukulele |
#51
|
|||
|
|||
reply to nut width
I left a reply to your inquiry earlier today but forgot the most important part. When I want to know if i need more string space between strings I just don't rely in a wider nut to solve my problem. Often manufacturers sell guitars with specifications saying 1 11/16 or 1 3/4 inch nut but never tell you the exact string space because they are the same.
Too find out if a wider nut is for you. Drop tune your guitar to the Key of D=D G C F A D Standard tuning is Key of E=E A D G B E Next put a capo on the second fret and recheck the D tuning to make sure you are in tune and play. If you are comfortable with the string space and like it practice it for several weeks and if you still like it, start looking for a guitar with a wider nut If you never used a Capo remember to remove it after using it. As always retune your guitar to its Standard tuning when finished to maintain proper neck set. Good Luck |
#52
|
|||
|
|||
I never paid attention to this... I keep it in mind. Thanks ! ;-)
__________________
Needed some nylons, a wide range of acoustics and some weirdos to be happy... |
#53
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Best regards, Mike _______________ Martin 00-28 Martin D-18 Cordoba C7 Gretsch Jim Dandy |
#54
|
||||
|
||||
As I noted above - this can be dependent on the way the fret ends are finished.
__________________
"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#55
|
|||
|
|||
This thread caught
My eye cause I just got out my guitars that have been severely neglected for a few years while I concentrated on photography. But some Grandkids are coming to visit and they are Learning guitar, so I felt a need to tune mine up. I have a classical, a Taylor 414, and an Orpheum OM-26SWR. Over the years I have played and owned a lot of guitars, but the two I enjoyed the most were the Taylor and a Tacoma deep body parlor PMZOE2. I assume the nut width was a factor with both. Since I am starting over more or less, I thought my 2 cents were needed. The classical is better for finger style, and easier on my fingers sans calluses. The Taylor 1 3/4 nut feels good for everything...picking and strumming The Orpheum 1 5/8 just feels a little cramped and is only good for strumming. So without realizing it I guess I am a wide neck guy. Years ago my wife said i had waited long enough and I should get a good guitar. I had GAS for a Martin D 28 and they are great guitars, but at every store I would enjoy the Taylor more. So I got a Taylor grand auditorium and 20 years later it is still a pleasure to play. Whvick |
#56
|
||||
|
||||
I think the answer is pretty straightforward. That 1/16” of an inch for most people is the difference between a tight spacing conducive to lead and a wide spacing enjoyed by fingerstyle players. It’s a noticeable and important difference for me.
__________________
Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#57
|
|||
|
|||
I want to thank everyone for their input, I learned a lot from this thread.
Well, I held off going to GC yesterday as I wanted to do a bit more research. I feel I am now armed with enough information to choose a guitar with some proper string spacing for my sausage fingers. I have my other guitars to play, but I'm looking for something a bit different. GAS mode I suppose
__________________
Best regards, Mike _______________ Martin 00-28 Martin D-18 Cordoba C7 Gretsch Jim Dandy |
#58
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Best regards, Mike _______________ Martin 00-28 Martin D-18 Cordoba C7 Gretsch Jim Dandy |
#59
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
It's not in your head. It's in your hands. The human body is far more sensative than the logical mind gives it credit for. Stop thinking so much. HE
__________________
My New Website! Last edited by Howard Emerson; 05-27-2019 at 05:40 AM. |
#60
|
|||
|
|||
For me, a big difference. What initially led me from 1 11/16 to 1 3/4 was I found myself, being strictly a rhythm guitar player when I switch chords quickly, on the 11/16, sometimes if I didn't come down perfectly on the chords, my stubby fingers would mute the strings.
On the 1 3/4 it rarely happens. I've played only 1 3/4 for so long, I can almost immediately tell the difference when I pick up a guitar and start to play it. |