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#1
12-27-2010, 06:16 AM
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Converting a Classical to a steel string?
I have a project guitar. Nicer quality, all laminated, nice thick binding, Brazilian RW Fingerboard. It does not have a truss rod but I see evidence of a Steel rod at least. Good neck angle, Ladder braced, no Bridge plate. Well built, no name.
Do I ... Osage Bridge plate, new/Nut, Bridge, Saddle. Refinish top. Whoa la? Or is there more? 
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#2
12-27-2010, 06:34 AM
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dunno.
I'm guessing that the extra tension of the steel strings will call for some heavier bracing. I was given an old gut strung that I'll be retopping soon,as it's about to pull apart, but leaving it as gut strung as (a) I don't have one and (b) my son is begging for it.  
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#3
12-27-2010, 07:51 AM
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Nylon stringed gutiars aren't braced for the higher tension of steel strings. I wouldn't attempt it, you'll probably ruin it.
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Taylor 610 (1989) Taylor 514CE (2002) Larrivee OMV-05 Taylor GA3
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#4
12-27-2010, 08:27 AM
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If it's ladder braced, it's probably not a classical guitar. Are the tuner rollers white plastic/bone or metal? If they are metal it was probably meant as a steel string guitar. Even if not, you could probably put silk and steel on it with little or no problem.
Brad
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Guild F212: 1964 (Hoboken), Guild Mark V: 1975 (Westerly), Guild Artist Award: 1975 (Westerly), Guild F50: 1976 (Westerly), Guild F512: 2010 (New Hartford), Pawless Mesquite Special: 2012, 90s Epi HR Custom (Samick), 2014 Guild OOO 12-fret Orpheum (New Hartford), 2013 12 fret Orpheum Dread (New Hartford), Guild BT258E, 8 string baritone, 1994 Guild D55, Westerly, 2023 Cordoba GK Negra Pro.
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#5
12-27-2010, 11:14 AM
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Steel. When I bought it it was pitched as a Steel string because of the ladder bracing. I just got confused on no bridge plate. Should I still put one of those in? The bridge on it is pinless with a through the bridge configuration, ball ends point to lower bout.
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#6
01-11-2011, 01:35 PM
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Before the 1900s, the majority of classical guitars were ladder braced. Why would you put steel strings on it? Nylon strings are more musical anyway. If you need more volume amplify it. Find someone who can identify the guitar before messing it up.
As you know steel rods can mean it is a steel string guitar, they aren't all truss rodded. If the nut or bridge is original you should be able to tell string width from that. Another give away is intonation since steel and nylon/gut strings intonate differently, though that is also history specific. When you tap it, does it seem real lively or is the top more boardy as you would expect if it was designed for steel. Put yourself in the luthier's shoes, does the top make you feel you overshot the steel string stiffness you normally shoot for? What is the neck angle? Neck angle is different on steelies. Does it have bar frets? A steel neck and bar frets is a classic steel set-up. Where is the bar? I don't know about this part, but if I was making a steel string without a truss rod with only a steel rod, I would put it near the back rather than under the FB, but I don't know how they did it. Anyone know? What is the action height? What is the neck contour and string spacing?
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#7
01-12-2011, 03:44 AM
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I don't think I would try that.... resell it or use it as a classical guitar.
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#8
01-12-2011, 05:05 AM
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I'll take some pictures and do some measurements. I am pretty convinced its a steel string. The zero fret threw me.
Why a steel string instead of a classical? I will get 3x as much for a steel string on fleabay.
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#9
01-13-2011, 03:05 PM
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Tension on a standard classical guitar is about 80 lbs, tension on a medium steel string is about 175 lbs. Putting 175 lbs of tension on a classical guitar is not advised.
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