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#1
01-30-2011, 12:18 PM
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Fret markers
I have a nice piece of birdseye maple veneer that I was thinking of using for fret markers. Nothing fancy, just plain circles. I think it would look nice against the dark rosewood I have for the fingerboard.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? I don't think I've ever seen a guitar with wood markers & I can't think of a reason why. 
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#2
01-30-2011, 01:14 PM
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The maple will get dirty and discolored over time unless you seal it. Otherwise there is no reason not to do it. Could look nice!!
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#3
01-30-2011, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Secondly, commercial veneers are too thin (.023, iirc). Thirdly, I agree with the previous poster about maple on a fret board looking dirty unless finished. Jim McCarthy
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#5
01-30-2011, 06:57 PM
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Veneer? Sounds like it would be very thin. No future. There are a bunch of cool markers out there.
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#7
02-02-2011, 10:24 AM
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Captain,
A few posters made very good points. The veneer is probably too thin, and the birds eye will probably not show in such a small thing like a position marker. I have seen some very cool wooden position markers, but they are thicker wood plugs. You might also have issues with getting the pocket for the inlay to the correct depth. Is the fretboard already fretted? That will greatly add to the difficulty level of this inlay project. Food for thought. Tony
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#8
02-05-2011, 06:28 PM
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Valid points.
I've decided to just go with some pre-cut abalone stars for this one. Maybe I'll experiment with wood in the future. I did a search on here and some some cool examples, but I don't want to be overly ambitious at this point.
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#9
02-05-2011, 06:59 PM
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I love wood inlays. Headplates from LMI and other guitar wood places make great inlay materials, as well as offcuts from backs.
I've done some veneer inlays too, but only on flat surfaces (headstock and rosette). Even then it's tricky getting the pocket depth so precise, and not sanding through on the finish prep. Fingerboards would be even harder, since the surface is arched, and the veneer too thin to sand the matching arch into it. Maybe could be done if you carefully rout the pocket for it following the curve of the board, and flex the veneer into it. But better to just use thicker pieces. Wood inlays are a lot easier than shell if you ask me... dust is much less harmful when cutting (I keep shell wet at all times when cutting), and wood is much less brittle and has a bit of give to it, so sometimes you can just mash it in if it almost fits. Also can use thicker pieces that stick up above the surface, so the pocket depth can be whatever you want, and just plane/scrape down at the end (again not worrying about dust, which is even more trouble in this case since you can't wet it down). But pre-cut stars ought to be fine. Just rout in some scrap to get the depth adjusted, and do the leveling outside, preferably mostly by scraper rather than sandpaper so the dust doesn't get fluffed into the air. Or wear a respirator. Probably the biggest pain will be after routing the pockets, cutting the fine points of the corners with a knife. Fun for a while, but 5 per star with however many fret markers there are can get to be killer on the hand.
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