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#1
12-26-2018, 12:00 PM
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Fret removal on Washburn D-10S
I just picked up a Washburn D-10S at a pretty low price on Craigslist, and the guitar was set up with very high action. I realized the issue is a single improperly seated fret (the 15th fret, right above the heel block - it’s a 14-fret guitar). There’s visible space between the fret and the fingerboard on the 1st string side, and only on that side. All the other frets are in pretty good shape.
The problem it causes is a buzz when I fret the first string higher up on the neck, and that the 13 and 14 frets all sound as the 15th fret on the first string. I want to do a setup on the guitar, but will have to deal with the high fret first, since lowering the action will only make the buzz worse. I’ve tried just using a clamp to seat that side of the fret, but it doesn’t move, and I’m hesitant to put too much pressure on it. I think the only thing to do is to remove and reseat the fret, probably after cleaning out the slot. My question is this: Given the location of the bad fret (right near where the neck is glued into the heel block), I probably don’t want to use heat to help loosen the fret. What’s the best way to go about getting that fret out? The fretboard is bound, BTW. Thanks! 
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#2
12-26-2018, 12:48 PM
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Try to seat it by hammering. The neck block won't be damaged. If it comes loose again, add some CA glue to stick it down.
Removing the fret will increase necessary work. You may chip the fretboard, bend the fret, etc. Heat from a soldering gun can heat the fret without causing damage anywhere else. (I'm not an expert, but, I hack on my own guitars.)
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#3
12-26-2018, 01:35 PM
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I would also start by hammering the fret in as fully as possible, in my shop I would heat it with a soldering iron first and use a brass rod between the hammer and the fret to avoid damage. If I had a fret press arbor, I might try that as well, but honestly tapping it in with a hammer and brass punch is what I usually do. The fret needs to be fully seated. At that point I agree a drop or two of thin CA glue would help keep it seated. I would only remove the fret as a last resort, and only if I suspected that I needed to recut the slot deeper (which would be problematic as the fretboard is bound, hence a last resort). If I got the fret fully home and there was still problem, dress the fret and re-crown.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
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#4
12-26-2018, 03:30 PM
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I would first push on the fret to see if it can be pressed down flush. If it can, you may be able to glue it down by wicking in some thin CA (super glue), holding it down until the glue sets. Hammering on the sprung end of a fret is usually a waste of time, because hammering tends to straighten the fret.
If the fret won't go down from pressing on it, pull it out with fret pulling pliers (flush ground end cutters), and make sure the slot is free of any debris. If there is concern about chipping the fretboard, the fret can be heated with a soldering iron. Over-bend the fret so that you won't have a repeat of the same problem when hammering it back in. You may want to use glue if the fret seems loose in the slot. Once the fret is solidly installed, you may still need to level it with the other frets. This is a common problem at the body joint.
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#5
12-26-2018, 03:37 PM
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FWIW I use a fret rocker, or any straight edge, to hold the fret in place by pushing it down with the straight edge across the frets on either side. That way you will 'set' the fret with the CA glue to be the same height as the fret in front of it.
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#6
12-26-2018, 09:01 PM
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Many things could be at play here.
I would check that the fret was not first loose, using your finger push on it, if it does not move then it’s firmly in place, if it does move, clamp it down and wick some superglue in. If it does not move, then first lightly tap it down with a hammer to see if it seats better, if not then the tang may be too big for the fret slot on that side, typical thing I see when people refret their own instruments, run a soldering iron over it, pull it out and then clean the fret slot and or deepen the slot and put a new fret in Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
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#8
12-27-2018, 11:37 AM
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First of all, many thanks to all who replied.
As I mentioned, I had already tried clamping and (as I didn’t mention) also hammering. It doesn’t budge. I suspect the slot wasn’t cut to the right size. (The fret looks like it is the right size.) If someone did try seating it with superglue, will heat release it? I’d rather not damage the binding, if possible. I’ve never used superglue for frets, or much of anything in my builds, so I’m unfamiliar with working with it. (Except for the baking soda trick for nut slot adjustment!)
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#10
12-27-2018, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Tim Mullin Shefford, QC CANADA
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#11
12-28-2018, 12:22 PM
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Update: I got the fret out yesterday, cleaned out the slot, and reinstalled the fret. Still had to do some minor filing. After that, I was able to do a good setup, and the guitar is playing and sounding really nice. Not bad for $75 and a couple of hours at the bench!
An aside: I’ve built a number of instruments, but never a steel-string guitar. This is giving me the itch to do that. It’s also giving me the itch to buy beat-up guitars with “potential”, and fix them up. What part of the forum would you post a thread along the lines of, “Plans for an addition to my house to hold all the guitars I’ve accumulated...?”  Thanks again for the helpful suggestions!
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