PSA: Mackie Freeplay refurbs $189, free ship

[dannyg1]

Originally Posted by martingitdave

That's great stuff. That second one might do the trick.


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I'm trying to suss out whether or not the power supply will run at full output often. I'll see what I can learn and post again. For now, I can't say whether the two best candidates, the Homeoak and GBTiger 50ah packs will surely work.
I've edited each post with an explanation of which will surely cover the spec and which won't.
I'm learning as I go and I promise, its painful to have to backpedal. I'll keep trying until I'm more sure I know what I need to know.

[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by dannyg1

I'm trying to suss out whether or not the power supply will run at full output often. I'll see what I can learn and post again. For now, I can't say whether the two best candidates, the Homeoak and GBTiger 50ah packs will surely work.

I've edited each post with an explanation of which will surely cover the spec and which won't.

I'm learning as I go and I promise, its painful to have to backpedal. I'll keep trying until I'm more sure I know what I need to know.

I have one 20v pack at home, and I will try it this week and see how it reacts to running/charging the Mackie.


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[dannyg1]

Originally Posted by martingitdave

I have one 20v pack at home, and I will try it this week and see how it reacts to running/charging the Mackie.


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Just in case anyone's interested in what Im looking into, this is a buck DC/DC stepdown board with a 5a max continuous draw and an inf variable output voltage between something like 3-32v.

In this case, I'd put two of them in a small plastic box that would cap a 24v lithium battery and set one for 20v and another for 12v, and put compatible connectors on the output of each. With that, you could be sure to get both products working at the proper voltage from one battery.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-DC-Buck-S...sAAOSwceNZPmZx


Thanks Dave but be careful to get the polarity right from the beginning. Reverse volting the amp might kill it.

[dannyg1]

Here's a 20000mah lithium Powerbank that'll power pedalboard boxes and the Play Acoustic that's on sale for $28:

https://www.amazon.com/KMASHI-20000m...12v+power+bank

Won't power the Freeplay, well it could actually but it would take some doing.

[dannyg1]

This 26000mH Powerbank, given the test result of the first review you can read, would power the Freeplay under full power (65w draw from the brick) for about 2.5 hrs.

Posted this to give an idea of how long the mah ratings of these things translate into real world run times.

https://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-2...MFE2A0CV7DKE95

[martingitdave]

I can confirm that this cable works to activate the preamp of the Mackie Freeplay.

It is a TS cable not a TRS cable. If you have Taylors with balanced output TRS connections, then this isn't the cable for you. His is for standard high z pickups. Be sure to check your impedance first.

This is for pickups with insufficient gain for the Mackie.

Audio2000's C17025 25 Ft 1/4" TS Right Angle to XLR Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFIBISS..._0WWuzbPCS40P2







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[lkingston]

Originally Posted by martingitdave

I can confirm that this cable works to activate the preamp of the Mackie Freeplay.

It is a TS cable not a TRS cable. If you have Taylors with balanced output TRS connections, then this isn't the cable for you. His is for standard high z pickups. Be sure to check your impedance first.

This is for pickups with insufficient gain for the Mackie.

Audio2000's C17025 25 Ft 1/4" TS Right Angle to XLR Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFIBISS..._0WWuzbPCS40P2







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I am guessing that the metering on the Mackie Connect app is pre-fader. Given that, what kind of levels are you getting? Any hum? This is such an easy solution. It's hard to imagine that it really is that simple!

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[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by lkingston

I am guessing that the metering on the Mackie Connect app is pre-fader. Given that, what kind of levels are you getting? Any hum? This is such an easy solution. It's hard to imagine that it really is that simple!

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No hum. Minor clipping with the fader set at -15 with the K&K 12 string. But impedance mismatch made tone a little odd in the highs. Straight in was perfect.

The Martin retro with the Aura Plus F1 sounds delicious. The easy mode is a modest gain system. So the XLR cable with the volume turned down works for me. I'm loving it.


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[lkingston]

Awesome! That would probably mean that the 30db of gain in the Reach might be too much. Of course, like you point out, you can always just turn the volume down a little. That or solder some resistors into an L or H pad hidden in the XLR jack.

I thought the impedance mismatch might be more of a problem. Another solution could be a directbox with a bit of a pad. I know that Radial Technology makes one with a 15db pad, but it is expensive and another thing to carry.

The new Zoom AC-2 has adjustable level control and an XLR output. Given that I like the body resonance effect, that might be a good solution. I might get one of those and sell my Boss AD-2 if the levels don't match up. There is a Josh Turner demo of the Zoom AC-2 that I posted in another thread. It sounds really good. Better than what I am getting from my AD-2 for sure.

I'm sure my VE-8 will be perfect, and that gives me extra guitar processing, a mic input, a harmonizer and a looper all with just one box.

Can you confirm that the metering is pre-fader and gives a good representation of how your signal is doing compared to optimal?

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[lkingston]

Here is a custom cable place that will let me order a 3 meter Ts to XLR male cable with a 12db pad:

http://naiant.com/studio-electronics...-attenuator-2/


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[martingitdave]

I'll confirm those goodies tomorrow. Can't remember. I usually do it all by ear. Zoom AC-2 is VERY attractive. But, the battery is expected to last only 2-3 hours because it is doing IR modeling. That makes it less attractive for battery use. Your boss is the best option and gives you mic processing too. A forum member said the reverb in the Ac-2 was less than stellar. I have no idea. Haven't tried one. But, I might get on in the future. I prefer my play acoustic pedal.

I have the $20 Behringer Passive DI. They say it has a 20 dB pad, but I only measured 10 dB. It works great and eliminated the impedance issue. Fortunately, the impedance is NOT an issue with Aura system. So, it requires us to use a little trial and error.

So far the things Aaron and I have tried with the Freeplay are:

1. Fishman Platinum Active preamp/DI (Fixed output) XLR - Signal a little too hot because XLR output gain is fixed.

2. Behringer Passive DI - OK for active pickups. Gain too low for some passive pickups. OK for K&K. You'll loose a bit of high end - might have to boos with EQ.

3. Straight in 1/4" with active LR Baggs Anthem pickup - gain is ok for quiet rooms, but about 6 to 10 dB too low for louder street playing.

4. Straight in 1/4" with passive mag pickup - gain too low to use.

5. Straight in 1/4" with Fishman Aura F1 Plus Retro guitars in Performance Mode - Works pretty well for medium/loudness applicaitons. Needed another 3-6 dB to be perfect.

6. XLR-TS with Fishman Aura F1 Plus Retro guitars in Performance Mode - Works great. Need to turn the volume down on the guitar.

7. XLR-TS with K&K PM 12 String passive - A little too hot. Clips if you play too hard. Impedance mismatch.

8. Straight in 1/4" with K&K PM 12 String passive - Just about perfect. No clipping and no obvious impedance mis match. "Wide Z" actually works. Lucky!

9. Everything works great though the play acoustic pedal. But, you need mains power or a special 12v battery pack.



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[dannyg1]

That's some fantastic detective work and reporting Dave. Thank you!

[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by dannyg1

That's some fantastic detective work and reporting Dave. Thank you!

Thanks!

Here's my final summary. This is a really good unit when purchased on sale. And, it will get the job done, if you recognize that they made some value engineering decisions with respect to the preamps. It is possible/likely that your guitar won't be loud enough when you plug it in for the first time. But, you'll need to follow the steps to understand why.

Basically, you get three input conditions on the mackie freeplay. All of this applies to the Mackie Reach.

1. Balanced XLR: +20 dB gain, and 10K ohm impedance.
2. Balanced TRS: +0 dB, and 100K ohm impedance.
3. Unbalanced TS: +0 dB and 400K ohm impedance.

Step 1. Determine your pickup type. Do you have an active pickup with good preamp and buffered signal? Or, do you have a passive pickup with high impedance requirement? It's important for the impedance matching.

Step 2. Determine your pickup's output gain. Plug your pickup in with a standard 1/4" instrument cable. What does the level read when you play hard and soft? If you're not mid way in the green, you need to boost gain. If you have enough gain, stop - you're done. The TS connection should have enough impedance for both active and most passive pickups that have enough gain to be usable.

Step 3. How to get more gain for an active pickup? If you need gain and you have an active pickup, you can try the XLR - TS cable. It will connect you to the XLR with low impedance and engage the preamp for 20 dB gain. If you have an older Taylor system with the balanced output buy a standard TRS-XLR balanced cable. If it sounds good, your impedance is probably close enough and you're done. If it doesn't sound good, follow step 4.

Step 4. How to get more gain for a passive pickup, or an active pickup with impedance issues? You're going to need a DI box or preamp unit. If you use a passive DI box into the XLR to activate the Mackie preamp, and match impedance, make sure it doesn't have a high attenuation. You'll defeat the purpose. If you use an active DI box into the XLR and your gain isn't clipping, you're done. If your fixed XLR DI output is clipping, you can go out of the 1/4" output of your DI into the 1/4" Mackie and you're done.

I think I'm officially done with my exploration on the Mackie Freeplay. Now, I'll go use it in peace. :-)

Thanks to Cuki, Danny and Aaron for their testing/advice.

[dannyg1]

I think you ought to post your last two posts to a separate thread called ' Things every Mackie Freeplay owner should know'.

Originally Posted by martingitdave

Thanks!

Here's my final summary. This is a really good unit when purchased on sale. And, it will get the job done, if you recognize that they made some value engineering decisions with respect to the preamps. It is possible/likely that your guitar won't be loud enough when you plug it in for the first time. But, you'll need to follow the steps to understand why.

Basically, you get three input conditions on the mackie freeplay. All of this applies to the Mackie Reach.

1. Balanced XLR: +20 dB gain, and 10K ohm impedance.
2. Balanced TRS: +0 dB, and 100K ohm impedance.
3. Unbalanced TS: +0 dB and 400K ohm impedance.

Step 1. Determine your pickup type. Do you have an active pickup with good preamp and buffered signal? Or, do you have a passive pickup with high impedance requirement? It's important for the impedance matching.

Step 2. Determine your pickup's output gain. Plug your pickup in with a standard 1/4" instrument cable. What does the level read when you play hard and soft? If you're not mid way in the green, you need to boost gain. If you have enough gain, stop - you're done. The TS connection should have enough impedance for both active and most passive pickups that have enough gain to be usable.

Step 3. How to get more gain for an active pickup? If you need gain and you have an active pickup, you can try the XLR - TS cable. It will connect you to the XLR with low impedance and engage the preamp for 20 dB gain. If you have an older Taylor system with the balanced output buy a standard TRS-XLR balanced cable. If it sounds good, your impedance is probably close enough and you're done. If it doesn't sound good, follow step 4.

Step 4. How to get more gain for a passive pickup, or an active pickup with impedance issues? You're going to need a DI box or preamp unit. If you use a passive DI box into the XLR to activate the Mackie preamp, and match impedance, make sure it doesn't have a high attenuation. You'll defeat the purpose. If you use an active DI box into the XLR and your gain isn't clipping, you're done. If your fixed XLR DI output is clipping, you can go out of the 1/4" output of your DI into the 1/4" Mackie and you're done.

I think I'm officially done with my exploration on the Mackie Freeplay. Now, I'll go use it in peace. :-)

[martingitdave]

Originally Posted by dannyg1

I think you ought to post your last two posts to a separate thread called ' Things every Mackie Freeplay owner should know'.

Done. Thanks for the help.

Danny, at some point, you might want to add a second post that details the battery options. I will look into the external battery packs I own and test it in the near future.

Ikingston, if possible please post to the new thread with links to the cable options. We might need three:

TS-XLR no attenuation for the FreePlay.
TS-XLR -6 dB attenuation for the Freeplay/Reach.
TS-XLR -12 dB for the Reach only.