#1
|
|||
|
|||
How many fret slotting tools do I need?
I’m gearing up to slot my own fretboard.
Last time I slotted a board, I used a construction square to guide my cut. It worked OK, but I was sometimes challenged to keep the saw from jumping out of the cut. I see ball bearing guided miter boxes which look really cool and wonder how necessary they are for a guy who will likely slot no more than two boards in the next two years. I thought about making a simple miter box of hard maple, but then wonder how I’d control the depth of cut. I’m eager for suggestions. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I made my own for my first guitar. Depth of cut was controlled by the blocks on either site of the fixture.
__________________
David My Woodworking YouTube channel - David Falkner Woodworking -------------------------------------------- Martin, Gallagher, Guild, Takamine, Falkner |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Am I reading a thread titled 'how many tools do I need'? Silly question...
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Double post
Last edited by Fathand; 02-17-2024 at 05:47 AM. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I made a similar mitre box. Done about 30 fretboards. I tap a wooden wedge on either end of the board to hold it in place. I use a previously slotted board, upside down as a template, indexed to a piece of hacksaw blade in the bottom of the mitre box.
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
If you’re only doing 1 or 2 per year, you really should consider buying a preslotted fretboard.. i just checked out prices at StewMac and the difference between slotted and unslotted is about $14.00 ($22.50 for a slotted fb). If you still have your heart set on buying yet another tool and creating a jig, that’s fine, but the small amount of extra outlay for a preslotted board certainly should be considered.
__________________
”Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet” |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I built 4 to 5 per year and if possible I buy them slotted too. Much easier and it's actually cheaper as far as my time is concerned.
Anyway, I do have to cut fret boards on occasion if it's an off scale length and all I require is a very accurate ruler a carpenters square and a razor knife. IIRC I do it just like in Cumpiano's book. First thing to do is square up an edge of the FB. Then tack the ruler to a straight long block of wood and lay it out on the fretboard very close to the edge of the FB and flush to the nut end. With the razor knife mark a nick on the FB for each fret position. Then with the square place the razor blade in the nick, square up, and draw a knife line across the FB for each fret. Then very simply cut the slots with the fretsaw, no miter box needed. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The jigs are helpful but not essential.
I managed to pick up an LMI fret slotting jig at a great price so I use that. It speeds up the process probably threefold when compared to hand slotting. More importantly I believe it to be more precise and the resulting slots are even and tight.
Cutting slots entirely by hand is one of those things everyone should experience but perhaps not revisit! I have a similar feeling towards cutting binding channels by hand. Once done nearly everyone looks for faster and easier alternatives. The StewMac jig is expensive but there are similar alternatives at lower prices. My suggestion would be to by a good fret slotting saw - the StewMac Japanese model is by far the best I’ve used - and try doing at least one fretboard by hand using a square and knife. You can then still use the saw if you go on to purchase a jig. Practice on a scrap of hardwood to get a feel for the process before butchering your fingerboard blank. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
It reminds me very much of my former career - dentistry! No booboos allowed, and we never say, "oops..."
__________________
”Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet” |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Purchasing pre-slotted boards is a good option, but it's not always an option, such as when building instruments where partial frets are common.
|