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Originally Posted by Twilo123
for the fretboard not flat issue should i have sand down the top to make it flat? it looks like the top was slightly raised. it looked like they would be flat when i did dry fit but after gluing the top was slightly raised.
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If you glue a thin (1/4") piece of wood across several pieces of wood that are not level, the thin piece of wood won't be level either, or it will have gaps underneath it to accommodate the lack of level surface to which it was glued.
One advantage of truing the fingerboard after installation is the ability to ensure the fretboard is flat - or whatever contour you want to have - along its length. You can't really do that if the frets are already installed.
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for the caul when you say trimmed to the contour of the fretboard do you mean radiused based on the fretboard radius?
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Sorry, I should have been more clear. No, the caul should be the same width as the fretboard, if not just slightly less. The caul should not overhand the tapered fretboard, else it will interfere with glue clean-up, which should be done before the glue is fully hard - usually about 10 minutes after clamping with Titebond or similar glue. It is quick, easy and clean to remove Titebond-type glue while it is still gummy, rather than wait until it is rock-hard.
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so for fretboard assembly i should punch in frets, glue to neck, then do all my filing and sanding? is that the proper order of events?
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For which instrument?
For a dulcimer, install the frets prior to gluing the fretboard to the top. Glue the fretboard to the top prior to attaching it to the sides. Hammering frets into a thin-walled hollow box isn't very successful. It is much easier to install, trim and dress the frets before assembly.