I've been following your progress since the previous thread where you stated:
"I now have proof that my measurement of .425" from straightedge to top of saddle is ideal. I thought I was setting this neck to get this measurement but my neck had warped back without me realizing it so the clearance was actually .375". This leaves the strings too high at .100" at 12th fret. I want .080". I have a cut through saddle with 1/8" of exposed saddle. I do have 1/2" top to string clearance. It was an interesting unintended experiment but I am convinced. I am not sure how anyone can dispute this. I will be taking this neck off and resetting it to the proper angle. One thing to consider is that string action only gets higher with time, so it is a losing battle against time eventually."
It appears that you are using a pre dovetailed head block and it was originally glued in off center as indicated by the massive shim on one side. Seems like the suppliers of guitar kits take this approach to simplify things for the builder but create a new challenge in both getting the block perfectly located and then modifying a previously cut neck joint so as to be appropriate for the as built guitar body.
Just curious as to what you changed to get your final results in this thread. If the neck "warped back" leading you to reset the neck, wouldn't you still have a warped neck?
If you changed the angle in the neck, was the area between the neck joint and sound hole changed to avoid fall off of the fingerboard?
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