Top bracing is looking much more appropriately sized.
I'd consider making neck and end blocks smaller: they don't need to be that heavy. I usually make end blocks from a laminate of spruce top off-cuts that end up being about 1/2" thick. I find that works well for both steel string and classical guitars.
I like the idea of using plastic tubing as the clamping interface. I've used upholstery foam to accomplish the same thing. A video of the process can be seen here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSXmP_eD8c4
As far as contouring the sides after bending, it is pretty easy. If you already have some plan you are following, you can easily trace it or draw in onto common poster board to make a functional, flexible template. Using a sharp knife, cutout the template. Then wrap the paper template against the bent side and use a pencil to mark the outline on the side. Then using a chisel, plane or coping saw, remove the excess to the line.
If you are using radiused dishes, just lay the bent sides in the outside mold on the dish and use a pencil in a divider of compass to mark the contour of the dish onto the sides. Remove excess, as above.
Alternatively, if you don't have a template, and don't use a dish - I don't - suspend the braced back above the bend sides in the outside mold. With the back bent to the appropriate shape - braces side-to-side and an appropriate curvature end to end induced - use a pencil in a divider or compass to mark the contour of the back onto the sides. Ditto for top. If that isn't clear, I probably have pictures that I can post of the process. Remove excess, as above.