[vintageparlors]

Thank you, Dave

String spacing at the bridge is largely a function of the widening of the fretboard from the nut to the finished end at the sound hole. As the fretboard widens, and being sure to leave enough room at the very edge so that the outer strings don't fall off the fretboard when played, we can calculate a reasonable string spacing at the bridge. This calculation will vary from guitar to guitar but on this Regal it looks like the string spacing at the bridge can be 2 1/4".

Our bridge is a little wider than most so we have ample room to located the bridge pin holes and accommodate the future saddle slot with plenty of room between the two for a proper break angle over the saddle. The first thing I do is tape over the area that will host the bridge pins holes. This will help minimize damage from drilling and/or reaming. I find the centerline between the two tapered ends of the bridge and measure 21mm back from the front edge of the bridge. Then I'll establish the low E string hole to be 1 1/8" from the bass side of the centerline and the high E string hole to be 1 1/8" from the treble side of the centerline. I use my trusting StewMac string spacing rule and mark the remaining four string positions between the two outside strings with a sharp probe. I drill a pilot hole for each string hole using a 5mm brad point bit. Photo 1.

After the pilots holes are drilled I can taper the each hole with a reamer to correspond with the taper of the bridge pins I'll use. Before I finish this step I'll use the Dremel tool with a 3/32" mill end bit and make a groove in each hole to accommodate the gauge of each string. Although I use slotted bridge pins it makes for a easier fit as the groove helps each string sit snug in the hole but without binding. Photo 2.

Once the bridge pin holes are finished, I tighten the neck assembly with threaded insert to the body and use a surrogate saddle to stand in until I'm done with the final vertical and horizontal neck alignment and I'm ready to slot the bridge for the permanent saddle. The 1/8" thick surrogate saddle rests on top of the bridge and is held in place by the downward pressure of the strings. This temporary saddle can move back and forth or be angled to test intonation. I find this method helps eliminate the guess work to plotting the final saddle position correctly for the best intonation possible. Photo 3 shows one of the surrogate saddles sitting on its side. Photo 4 shows the same saddle resting on top of the bridge with a test set of strings keeping it snug in place.

Next we'll finalize neck alignment with an eye to establishing the desired action at the 12th fret.