[RJVB]

You could start by tuning the guitar down enough that it becomes easy to move the bridge (take it between thumb and index, try to lift it with the other fingers and move it. You can also use those other fingers of one hand to anchor the left or right end in order to pivot it.

This way, you can set up compensation yourself. Get a good tuner that shows you how many cents a string is off compared to whatever note it's closest to and then tune the low, then the high E. You want the harmonic at the 12th fret to be pure, and the note when stopping at the 12th fret to be to close to pure as possible (= within ±5 cents). If the stopped note is too low, move the saddle closer to the nut, move it further away if too high (keep the strings well centred on the fretboard!). If the low E is done, take care of the high E, anchoring the saddle on the bass side.
When both strings are intonated well enough you can check the others and again after tuning back up; if the saddle is correct every string should now be intonated properly.

My Loar 650 has a compensated saddle but I still find myself with the bridge at a small angle after doing the set-up this way.

The easiest way to replace the saddle would probably be to get one that fits on the height adjustment bolts in your bridge; I'm guessing that Eastmans are popular enough that someone makes replacement, compensated saddles for them. Adjusting a new bridge to the top is probably going to be a whole different story.