Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Gore
....As the joint always needs some final hand fitting anyway, which I can do quite rapidly, I came to the conclusion that it was quicker for me to always do a "neutral" 90 degree bandsaw cut and then hand trim which ever way I needed to go rather than have dedicated jigs or set-ups on the band saw. If you have a bandsaw table that will tilt both ways, you can do the off-square shoulder cuts on a bandsaw, if that is your preference, but I've found that some hand trimming is still always required. You then have to return the table to precisely square again (never as easy as it should be!) With a large bandsaw, you should not need to finish the bass side cut with a hand saw.
If you have access to a table saw, the cuts can be done on a table saw by tilting the blade, but there's still the inevitable hand trimming. However, a table saw is a large piece of kit that is unnecessary for guitar building, so a table saw (other than a bench top one used for fret slots) doesn't form part of the book's tool kit.
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Thanks for the reply Trevor.
The bandsaw in the workshop is a pretty large one with no tilt function so that option was out.
Because of my original angle miscalculation/mis cut/ mistake whatever, it was very difficult to adjust it that far by hand. I ended up with the help of one of the resident carpenter/cabinet makers from the workshop making a jig to allow us to cut the correct angle on one of the 2 large tables saws there (there are a lot of furniture builders using this workshop so they have large tools, if it was my own workshop, a table saw would be down the list of required tooling due to space and cost). Using the table saw worked out very nicely though. The very, very minor adjustments needed afterwards were much easier to do than the very large, almost so big I had thought about scrapping the whole neck type ones. I have now discovered I probably need a small rabbet plane which would probably help this process. Another job, another tool haha. I'd like one of the Veritas ones but my bank account tells me otherwise. I've seen some affordable bull nose rabbet planes, but not being a handtool expert I'm not sure if the bull nose planes are the right tool for this job.
Having thought about alternative options, I may be tempted to do that cut entirely with a japanese saw and a clamped on, angled, stabilising guide block next time.
The other option is to invest in a router based neck angle jig. But no matter how much I think about them, I can't get my head around how you can modify the horizontal cheeks cut by the router (at the correct angle) to become undercut to fit the curve of the guitar without damaging or changing that neck angle that was so precisely routed.
Can anyone who uses the router based neck angle jig method explain to me how this is achieved?! it would be much appreciated!