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Yeah, I have had the thought that my sequence of performing the various tasks here needs work. The cedar did probably get thinned a small amount more than I intended after the deflection test in the upper bout/sound hole area. My thought was to make sure I have strongly braced the area, which I mostly planned to do anyway. I like some of Somogyi's thoughts on bracing the upper area. Strong transverse upper brace, inside heel block that intersects the transverse brace by extending towards the sound hole, supporting the fret board under the soundboard. Then I'll make sure the upper portions of the X brace and the sound hole braces remain a little taller than I perhaps might have cut them. Course, this being a first attempt, I have no real reference point except the literature and online resources. So we'll see what happens. I won't be completely heart broken if it fails in some way. It will have been an invaluable learning experience.
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Considering the small body you might get away with the thinner plate. I follow Somogyi's ideas of the transverse brace and neck block extension as well. Once you add the braces to the top you'll find that that the once floppy top stiffens up pretty well. The tops and rosettes look pretty cool...
Also, if you want to get some decent top woods, check out your local lumberyard. If they'll let you sort through stock (and of course put it back neatly) you can find some nice quartered 2X12 clear WRC, even Sitka if you have a decent lumberyard. Last I went I paid $15/lf for 2x12 clear WRC (my lumberyard does not stock 2x10 or 2x8 in clear.) I think if you're careful about protecting the top and resist sanding until the very end and only then lightly you should be fine.