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Old 04-18-2021, 09:43 AM
beatcomber beatcomber is offline
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Location: Lexington, Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArchtopLover View Post
Nice guitar. I own a few Gibson L-50's (well that's really not true, I own quite a few, far more than I admit in my signature). Nevertheless, I too am a purist when it comes to archtops and aftermarket electronics. However, so long as the braces have not been compromised, and cut to accommodate the pick-up, (I do not know how this pick-up was installed), removing the pick-up and patching any screw holes will only achieve a modest improvement in tone and volume. IMO, it is far more important to have a well made and slotted bone nut, good break angle at the bridge and a precisely profiled bridge foot to the soundboard. Otherwise, enjoy as is .
Fortunately the DeArmond Model 41 mounts to the top via two small screws, and the wire runs along the top of the guitar to a surface-mounted control block, so if the electronics were to be removed, only four screw holes would be visible (and one would be covered by the pickguard). There shouldn't be any routing beneath the pickup.

I've decided what to do about the crooked pickguard. I did some more research and learned that the ES-125 and L50 have the same body width and scale, so I will assume that the pickguards are the same size. I just ordered a WD ES-125 repro guard in black/white/black from an eBay seller who accepts returns within 30 days. It sure looks like the cutout for the pickup is right where I need it to be.



ES-125:



L50:

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1955 Gibson ES-125
1956 Fender Champ lap steel
1964 Guild Starfire III
1984 Rickenbacker 330
1990s Mosrite (Kurokumo) Ventures
2002/2005 Fender Japan '60s Tele [TL-62-66US]
2008 Hallmark 60 Custom
2018 Martin Custom Shop 00-18 slot-head

1963 Fender Bandmaster (blonde blackface)
1965 Ampeg Gemini I
2020 Mojotone tweed Champ kit build
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