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Old 07-24-2013, 09:05 PM
Viking Viking is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingCavalier View Post
Very nice work. Why am I not surprised you used a Popsicle stick to cut the sound hole.


Scott
I was going to mention the duct tape and my pocket knife, but I didn't want to give you guys too much ammunition to tease me with.

I actually ended up just drilling a hole in the base of my trim router to give me the 1 & 7/8 inch radius and did it that way. Screw the Popsicle stick! Didn't like it anyway, even after I had new, sharp blades. Kept giving me the feeling that it was about to go veering off and cut into wood I didn't want it to.

On another note... I was going to finish thickness sanding my white oak back tonight, but the re-purposed circular saw motor I was using died. I've been giving it regular breaks from the work(it being an intermittent duty motor), but there is still just too much consistent use. So, I called my dad (who is an electronics instrumentation/technician expert), and he walked me through how to wire up the motor I got from the scrap yard. So I'll be wiring that up tonight, verify that it functions, and then tomorrow I'll attach it to the drum sander.

I'm actually kinda glad it died. I don't like using the drum sander now, because it's so freaking loud. I'm afraid it's bothering the neighbors. So it will be good to get this new motor installed and running. It's certain to be one heck of a lot quieter than the other one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by naccoachbob View Post
Nick, the rosette is cool. Gonna look nice on that top.
I'm not sure if my post is in time or not, but if it is, one word of caution that I found out about last nite. The harder woods that you (and I) use for our rosettes will not sand as quickly as the top material will. I don't have the advantage of a thickness sander, so I don't know how that will work for you. But be careful. If you put the rosette in and it's below the top's surface, when you get pretty close, slow it down real good. I went thru mine although only a little bit. I had so wanted the top to be slick all over with no bumps this time. LOL, but it didn't happen.
My question is going to be, did you see or feel the same that I'm finding on mine? Does the thickness sander work better in this regard than my hand held? I'm sure it does, which will make me try to get one sooner
Thanks, and best of luck,
Bob
Good call on the warning about sanding the rosette. Not necessary it seems for a drum sander though. At least, the white oak and walnut rosette I put together sanded to the same height as the surrounding WRC using my drum sander. No difference in height between the two of them. Course, a drum sander works on different principles than an orbital hand sander. Once the wood is at the right height, the drum ceases putting any additional pressure on it unless you crank the knob some more. There might be a small amount of the softwood coming off faster than the hardwood, but as long as you pass the piece through a few times after the drum has ceased taking much of a bite out of the wood, it should be taking the remainder of the hardwood down to the same thickness as the softwood.

At least, that's how it seems to me. I just ran my finger over the joint between the rosette and the cedar again, and it feels smooth. No real difference in the thickness between the two.

So yeah. Definitely want a drum sander. Very nice addition to the tool set.
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