View Single Post
  #18  
Old 07-26-2014, 02:04 PM
Protosphere Protosphere is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5
Default JLD Bridge System

Rather than install the JLD and tighten to try and lower the top, what I did was place a damp cloth inside the guitar while placing a number of heavy books on the top for several days (3 to 5 days for softer cedar, 5 to 10 for harder spruce). This alleviated having the JLD system strain when installing (or worst yet break the rod that is suppose to be able to turn by hand by trying to lower the belly).

Important lessons learned, never put wet stuff in guitar without ensuring it rests on something like plastic so as not to wet the wood, as I developed mold quickly. Not that big a deal as it dried but mold is not desirable on anything. This preworking the top flat worked beautifully on my cedar top 12 string, the action and sound is superb, unbelievable. Even Martin uses the JLD to flatten bellies coming back for repair and one manufacturer puts them in right from new.

Another very important lesson learned, place wood underneath the bottom edges on the back as the underside is rounded, I almost flattened mine. Luckily mine was damp enough to push out albeit not as rounded or aesthetic as before it worked well as it hummed up a storm when I then tried to blow dry the moisture, even though I do not recommended this as heat and damp can unglue joints but I was in a nothing to lose situation here and took a desperate risk.

Anyways, this top was cedar top which is soft, and is much easier than the laminate spruce top I am working on now. Here, I used a wet sponge on top of a plastic lid on the inside so it would not touch the wood, and I always did use another plastic top to cover the hole and keep the moisture in, just like the youtube video shows one guy in how he fixed a warped belly. Add a JLD bridge system support after flattening and it won't warp / belly up again, JLD keeps it in place. They should put them in all guitars.

I used books to assist the process again with this spruce top (laminate) but it took much longer to flatten than cedar (twice as long) I now await the delivery of the next JLD bridge system. The books and moisture did work great though. You might want to gradually increase the weight each day, I even had the books and a tool chest resting on top by the 3rd day =)

I found the JLD incredible, works great, the action and tone was remarkably improved to make the guitar a joy to play for hours. I trust it will do just as well on my harder spruce top too. The saddle may have to be raised if you constantly lowered it as the belly rose but this is another topic. If you did you know what to do, get a new saddle and file it down until you get the right height, just make sure the neck is straight albeit trussing is rarely needed. File and install until you have it exactly where you want it balancing tone and action. In my case I blew the first saddle with buzzing but for 6 bucks so what, got another and used the blown one as a reference to make a tad wider. No buzzing, and feather light action. Surprisingly not that much sacrifice on tone either. ...anyway

In short, don't try and make the bridge doctor do all the work. Think about it, it takes one heck of a lot of stress to do so. How can you, especially when the rod is suppose to turn by hand so as not to snap. JLD's tension also has nothing to do with tone as long as it makes good contact so don;t worry there. I like it tight, so I can barely turn it with my fingers with good force, as anything more risks breaking it and reordering a new one takes a week and 30 bucks later. So, level the belly first over a week or two, then its a breeze, and JLD will keep it there forever, sounding better than ever, they say like adding 50 years to the sound of the guitar.

Again, I don't see how anyone can unwarp a belly otherwise without snapping the rod under so much stress/tension, perhaps even when gradually tightening a bit at a time over over many weeks or months which renders it inoperable in the meantime. Perhaps if its is damp inside, dunno...but then who wants moisture in there that long.

I removed the sponge from the spruce top a day ago after it flattened and am letting it dry leaving the books on top until the JLD arrives in the rare event she wants to spring back without a JLD which I understand she doesn't really, or at least not for a long time in the event you want to fix without a JLD making sure it is bone dry before restringing ...but why, to save 30 bucks, when you already went so far and can have a better sound with no more bellying again.

The flat heavy weight (books in my case) on top was invaluable. Don't let water touch the wood and remember the back is rounded so elevate those edges before placing lots of heavy books on top to straighten before installing the JLD, leaving the underneath untouched and rounded.

Hope this helps some one and wished I knew this stuff before trying it myself first and learning the hard way. I feel I can fix any bellied top now, making it louder, clearer, with more sustain, and lower action. What is not to love or rave about. It works awesome, just take note not to repeat any of my hard learned by trial errors. Take extra care if its a very expensive instrument, especially when drilling the bridge, TAKE YOUR TIME.

Last edited by Protosphere; 07-26-2014 at 02:43 PM.
Reply With Quote