View Single Post
  #19  
Old 06-15-2018, 05:33 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Tatamagouche Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,136
Default

For me, you are confusing two quite separate repairs. You do a neck reset if the neck joint or the guitar body has moved to the extent that you can't lower the bridge saddle enough to get normal action height. Neck resets on your guitar (I saw one in progress once) are a total PITA - you have to saw the neck off the body, and devise a bolt on joint with what's left. I'd have to truly love the guitar to do that to it. Edit: read your other thread, this is indeed a labor of love.

If you look at your bridge and there is enough saddle showing to let you lower the action (after adjusting the truss rod and all of that), then you don't need a neck reset. If it's marginal (which is what this actually sounds like) then you get to a re-fret. A re-fret is far less invasive than sawing the neck off, and while re-fretting there are many things that can be done to help with the action. Two that come to mind are planing the fretboard to slightly improve it's angle with respect to the bridge saddle and refretting with taller frets to lower action by simply moving the frets closer to the strings. I wouldn't discount the possibility that your guy is right, and he can get it playing well with a judicious re-fret. What you described in your original post is about what I would do.
__________________
Brian Evans
Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.

Last edited by MC5C; 06-15-2018 at 05:41 AM.
Reply With Quote