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Originally Posted by emmsone
I do have a question for you though, in your book your method to get the undercut is use a bandsaw to start with and then a handsaw but that seems to give you a vertical cut relative to the neck plane (unless its on a moveable jig that predetermines the neck angle that i'm not seeing in the pictures) and then you clean it up with a plane, but this is still 90 degrees (to the neck plane) right? lets say for instance i wanted a 1.5 degree neck angle, the band saw can't do that unless i sit the neck on something to hold it at that angle while I cut? is this what you do? or am I missing something?
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I make both steel string and classical guitars. Steel string necks need a tilt back of 1-1.5 degrees, whilst classical BOBO necks need a tilt close to zero degrees. As the joint always needs some final hand fitting anyway, which I can do quite rapidly, I came to the conclusion that it was quicker for me to always do a "neutral" 90 degree bandsaw cut and then hand trim which ever way I needed to go rather than have dedicated jigs or set-ups on the band saw. If you have a bandsaw table that will tilt both ways, you can do the off-square shoulder cuts on a bandsaw, if that is your preference, but I've found that some hand trimming is still always required. You then have to return the table to precisely square again (never as easy as it should be!) With a large bandsaw, you should not need to finish the bass side cut with a hand saw.
If you have access to a table saw, the cuts can be done on a table saw by tilting the blade, but there's still the inevitable hand trimming. However, a table saw is a large piece of kit that is unnecessary for guitar building, so a table saw (other than a bench top one used for fret slots) doesn't form part of the book's tool kit.
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Originally Posted by emmsone
That is a great spot. I will be heading to the hardware shop very shortly when it opens to go and grab some M6 T-nuts...
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I use M6 T-nuts just for consistency of sizing across a number of applications. If you need to go down to M5 to fit either side of your truss rod, you'll still have more than enough bolting capability. Use some large washers under the screw heads, though.