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Originally Posted by kwakatak
I don't like the nylon bars at all and am looking for a suitable wood. So far all I've found that's conveniently available is strips of pine that's roughly 1/4" x 1/2" and comes in lengths 16' long.
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Hardwood (e.g. maple) wooden dowels of circular cross section are available at many hardware stores and in several adequate lengths. These work adequately. Better yet, are bars of rectangular cross section. (The rectangular cross section resists the tendency of circular bars to rotate in use.) If you have basic woodworking machinery, these are easy to make using your choice of hardwood. Another option is fibreglass bars of rectangular cross section. Your local building supply store often sells these for use in fencing.
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After that it was basically chisel work with some sanding to clean out the slot.
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Yes, the sanded area is visible in the photo. Local sanding like that can compromise the gluing surface. The back of a chisel, used as a scraper, works well in cleaning the area.
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For glue clean up, I saved a piece of scrap from the angled cut on one of the braces and wrapped it in a white t-shirt cloth soaked with naptha.
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If you leave the Titebond squeeze-out for 5 to 10 minutes it will begin to harden. In that state, it is easy to remove as a rubbery unit, rather than smearing it around with a cloth with water or other solvent. Being water-based, naptha isn't necessary for clean-up - warm water will work, if absolutely necessary. I find that there is more than enough exposure to "nasty" stuff related to woodworking and instrument making that I prefer not to use chemical solvents if something more benign will do the job.