Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber
That's the device.
It was originally marketed for measuring string height between the first fret and the bottom of the strings - something not demonstrated by Mr. O'Brien in the video.
One method of determine the correct string height at the nut is to measure the distance that a string is above the first fret. As an example, let's say we use the device, above, and measure a distance of .020" that the string can be depressed before it touches the first fret. If the target distance is, say, .005", we need to reduce that height by .015". To reduce that distance by .015", one then removes material from the nut slot by some unknown amount, an amount that will result in the target .005 height of string above first fret. Frequently, the slot height is reduced by trial and error until the .005" target is reached.
The reason that I don't like this method is the trial and error part of it. One stroke of the file too much and the slot is too low.
The reason that I prefer the stacked feeler gauges is that it is a direct process. That is, what one files is what one measures. One keeps filing until one just touches the top of the feeler gauges with the file - a tactile feedback of when to stop. There is no trial and error and no cutting a slot too deep. No back and forth of removing a bit from the slot, measuring, removing a bit more from the slot, measuring...
Both methods work. I just prefer the direct measurement (feeler gauge) approach. Steve prefers the indirect measurement approach.
|
Charles nailed my process except, i dont file the strings down to height, i treat the nut, the same as a saddle, i make the nut radius the same as the fretboard , i notch my string locations to half depth, then i do the measuring exactly as charles has quoted and I remove material from the bottom to hit 10 thou string clerance, then i glue the nut in, and finish up with two or three strokes of the files at each string location to take the strings to 5 thou clearance at the end
Steve