-1 for the Taylor way, and I own one (Taylor guitar) to boot. I see a few problems; a couple were already hinted at. Strings like Newtone, DR Sunbeams (and yet some others) are wound on round cores. This means the outer wraps can slide on the core if the string is installed the way Taylor recommends. If the core separates, buzzing or rattling within the string itself can occur. I think the amount of separation that could be problematic would be impossible to detect visually.
As for keeping round core strings from separating, DR Strings recommends taking the string up to pitch and then cutting excess, unlike the Taylor method. In addition, a secondary kink at the post (not found in the Taylor method) acts as another place to stop any potential core slipping. I take it one step further and leave an inch or so of excess, and fold it in half back on itself. The fold makes for an interesting look. This final part of mine is almost certainly not needed, but there is nothing wrong with redundancy in preventing string problems. They say taking the string up to pitch before cutting is not needed for hex core strings, but I see no harm in any extra caution here too, since the hex shape is actually a bit vague with un-sharp vertices under magnification.
My other complaint about the Taylor method is they recommend pliers to remove pins, and do not even mention that there are special tools to do this called bridge pin lifters. Why use a heavy steel pair of pliers with sharp edges (which would do irreparable harm to the top from even a short drop, and we all know accidents happen) not to mention the marks it will leave on the saddle over many string changes (if one has a saddle they are fussy about.)
Bridge pin lifters are usually made of lightweight wood (less damaging in a fall) and rounded metal coated with plastic to protect the saddle and bridge during levering, and are a very inexpensive investment to protect say a $2000Taylor. It is cuckoo to spend thousands on a guitar and quibble about a $6 bridge pin lifter that could save a catastrophe.
Frankly, the only interesting thing the Taylor method has going for it is establishing the length of excess string. This is no big deal, and can be done many ways. I happen to slide the string in the hole with the hole facing perpendicular to the fretboard, and lift the string away from the fretboard about half a hand at the 12th fret, which works out to about 4", and this roof shaped string geometry is good for the same number of wraps as the Taylor method.
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